Will this diagnostic machine work?

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AlexD333

AlexD333

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I know some are not compatable with the terranos, and mine being the newer shape causes issues no?

One of the techs said I can borrow this.

Will it work?



 
Got the plug pics, here we are, failing that the other teccy has a 200 quid diagnostic machine that does plug in, so could always ask to borrow that :augie



 
That is a generic OBDII reader, so...
It will as work if pin 7 (K-line) is fitted on your 16 pin DTC.
As I mentioned earlier: http://www.nissan4x4ownersclub.com/forum/showpost.php?p=270601&postcount=21

I have marked the pin numbers in green.
Pin 7 shown on my connector is not fitted, so no OBD for me!
If there is a pin fitted here then there is a very good chance that OBD diags will work.
 

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rayf3262 said:
That is a generic OBDII reader, so...
It will as work if pin 7 (K-line) is fitted on your 16 pin DTC.
As I mentioned earlier: http://www.nissan4x4ownersclub.com/forum/showpost.php?p=270601&postcount=21

I have marked the pin numbers in green.
Pin 7 shown on my connector is not fitted, so no OBD for me!
If there is a pin fitted here then there is a very good chance that OBD diags will work.
Click to expand...

Bloody hell dude my head just exploded when I looked at that picture :p

I was hoping to borrow that one as it is easier to read than the more expensive machine. perhaps I should borrow the complicated one instead :eek:

EDIT!!! infact just read your post, another tech at work read the codes with a non nissan reader so must be good on that basis?
 
save yourself the hassle grab paper clip & do this:doh then you will get the Nissan fault code & you can find whats up in the down loads
 

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Banshee said:
Does this method just clear the codes or does it show the MIL flashes on the dash as well?
Click to expand...

It's the contacts that need bridging on the later models to get the MIL to flash to show the codes but clearing codes is the same as in the down load just break the bridge contact a few times & it clears the stored codes:thumbs I used Rick's method & soldered some wire onto an old rocker switch & soldered the wire onto a cut up paper clip which is a nice snug fit into the plug & just need to plug it in & flick the switch to read codes or flick the switch back & forth a few times to wipe the codes makes it dead easy
 
Sweety said:
It's the contacts that need bridging on the later models to get the MIL to flash to show the codes but clearing codes is the same as in the down load just break the bridge contact a few times & it clears the stored codes:thumbs I used Rick's method & soldered some wire onto an old rocker switch & soldered the wire onto a cut up paper clip which is a nice snug fit into the plug & just need to plug it in & flick the switch to read codes or flick the switch back & forth a few times to wipe the codes makes it dead easy
Click to expand...

You got any pictures of that :cool:
 
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