help needed

[solarman216]

Originally Posted by dave123

rick .that's what I'm saying they need to be slightly out of alignment and the tilt adjustment should do this . you just need to keep adjusting till it settle

thanks mate, yes have been adjusting the top pulley on its pivot but have just realised the top downward blade carbide block is still forward, but if I tilt the whole top structur back a little then this will go back as well, will give it a go tomorrow, Rick

[solarman216]

tried many times today, problem seems to be it is random, the best result I had was 5 or 6 faultless starts then belt shed half a second after power on??????????????????????? Rick

[rustic]

Originally Posted by solarman216

tried many times today, problem seems to be it is random, the best result I had was 5 or 6 faultless starts then belt shed half a second after power on??????????????????????? Rick

If you videoed it, then went slow, could you know which part it came off first.
If you knew that... how would that help?

Just a thought.

[solarman216]

video might be worth a try, but first I need to replace the V belt tween motor and bottom pulley, as it has a split in it, just wondering if the split is in a particular place on startup that it causes a problem? clutching at straws I know but there has to be some reason that it will start perfectly sometimes and others throw the blade instantly, bothe with old and new blade, have yet to put a dial gauge on the pulleys but they both look perfect when turning, Rick

[rustic]

Ahh slit v belt... might not give smooth constant speed to the drive pulley, the momentum of the blade and the un driven blade pulley might snatch the pulley from under the blade at certain parts of the revs, a bit like pulling a table cloth from under glasses and plates on a table.
Alex... do not try this at home.. lol

OK not as dramatic as this, but the fact it is almost working most of the time, then this needs to be considered.

Also, the motor won't be a soft start, ie runs up from slow, this might also cause a snatch.

So... I wonder, if the capacitor on the motor is on it's way out.
If paper electrolytic, only have a limited life anyway, as they dry out.

I said you might need some lateral thinking and to look at other things.

Rustic

[solarman216]

Well some success, new drive belt fitted and started the machine up 20 odd times, most times the blade remained steady on the bottom pulley a couple or so times it drifted forward but only a little, we will have to wait till tomorrow to see if when he cuts meat and bone it remains good, but fingers crossed, Rustic I would have tried a new but slightly smaller start capacitor already to lower the startup torque, but it is encased in a metal cover and the screws are solid and do not want to shear them just yet, if desperate measures are needed later then I will, Rick

[Mobieus_uk]

its it level? as I'm guessing the pulleys are that flat type and as a result not being perfectly level may allow the blade to wander off

[solarman216]

Mmmmmm food for thought, it has had the original legs removed (due to new kitchen has welded vinyl covering) and it is now sat on a very heavy S/S base on 6 heavy casters, now this brings me to a point, today on fitting the new drive belt the machine was sited 3 foot left of its normal place, not sure why, could be a link?? will check this out Monday, Rick

[solarman216]

seems the drive belt was not the cure it promised to be first cut of meat and it was off again, Mobieus is this your field? Rick

[Mobieus_uk]

not my field, but in my industry we have smooth pulleys that are designed to throw the belt in the event of a problem and they have to be level
if it was on fixed legs (no castors) it was for a reason i.e stop people moving it

[solarman216]

Originally Posted by Mobieus_uk

not my field, but in my industry we have smooth pulleys that are designed to throw the belt in the event of a problem and they have to be level
if it was on fixed legs (no castors) it was for a reason i.e stop people moving it

OK follow your thoughts, but this machine is so solid and rigid, I really cannot see that it can distort enough, but might be proven wrong, anyway had enough of it, won a Hobart on Ebay tonight, so will see what this brings, Rick

[briggie]

this might not help rick mate , but about 40 years ago I worked in a slaughter house ...... we had a few big band saws for splitting carcases ...... my memory isn't too good these days , but .....as far as I remember it had to be level , and the blade didn't just go around pulleys , it went through a couple of guide type things ......... not much use I know mate , but it might help .

[solarman216]

yes Pete I have learnt a lot about meat saws of late, they have blade cleaners and pulley cleaners as well as carbide wear blocks, all have been replaced and some were not even present in the beginning, but all to no avail, all the forums I have visited say the same, bin it and get a Hobart, well that is what I have done, Rick

[AlexD333]

Originally Posted by solarman216

yes Pete I have learnt a lot about meat saws of late, they have blade cleaners and pulley cleaners as well as carbide wear blocks, all have been replaced and some were not even present in the beginning, but all to no avail, all the forums I have visited say the same, bin it and get a Hobart, well that is what I have done, Rick

And the old unit?

If you can fix this unit you could be in the money

[briggie]

http://www.birouk.com/biro-model-3334ss-4003.html

is this any use rick ? ....... it says its a 2 blade saw