My new off roader - Page 2

20-09-2007, 20:52

i looked at disco once itd got 3.2 patrol engine in but it got hot really quick normal discos just seem blurgghh when you rev em just dont seem to have any oomph to em being a bosch pump it should be easily tweaked though!

22-09-2007, 22:23

Well, I've just done around 12 hours in Derbyshire, including the mighty Stanage.

Had a fantastic day and only one problem

ops: whoever fitted the brand new starter motor, did it wrong, ascending Stanage the wires burnt out causing a minor burn out and then no starter working, not sure yet if its the wiring or starter that will need replacing

ops: Try bump starting backwards downhill on Stanage

ops: Still managed to complete the day by bumping it, so glad I didn't buy an auto now

:

Really looking forward now to 13 October to do it all again

22-09-2007, 23:39

bound to be big relay somewhere thats took brunt of it

22-09-2007, 23:44

theres a little round bowl type fuel filter at rear discos underneath usally gets ignored and fills with filth whilst your underneath lol!

23-09-2007, 09:00

Quote:

Originally Posted by jace

theres a little round bowl type fuel filter at rear discos underneath usally gets ignored and fills with filth whilst your underneath lol!

Anything thats under mine, will be bashed to bits, it took a right hammering on the front and rear bash plates going up Stanage. I had to take a crowbar and hammer to the plates to pry loose my shackle points so I could be used as an anchor point for the vehicle two places behind to attach a bridle and snatch plate to winch the vehicle behind me over the hardest part.

23-09-2007, 21:59

bigjim · 24-09-2007, 15:45

looks like you are getting in some serious rough terrain in the landie looks well sorted have fun enjoy 8)

:

30-11-2007, 15:15

I feel like I'm getting somewhere now. Its lifted and stood on bigger rubber, Insa special traks at 32". Probably going to have to cut the arches and rock sliders back a bit to get full articulation which means fitting rubber arches so more expense :roll:

http://i41.photobucket.com/albums/e2...man/Rocky2.jpg
http://i41.photobucket.com/albums/e2...man/Rocky1.jpg

bigjim · 30-11-2007, 20:25

Quote:

Originally Posted by cameraman

I feel like I'm getting somewhere now. Its lifted and stood on bigger rubber, Insa special traks at 32". Probably going to have to cut the arches and rock sliders back a bit to get full articulation which means fitting rubber arches so more expense :roll:

http://i41.photobucket.com/albums/e2...man/Rocky2.jpg
http://i41.photobucket.com/albums/e2...man/Rocky1.jpg

Looks like you should have bought a landie lightweight to fit them tyres in??????

:

01-12-2007, 02:01

Them tyres are going out to play in just a few hours time

: So I'll soon know if I've spent wisely and need the body cutting.

15-12-2007, 17:37

Well I've had to cut the body back substantially.
Was dead worried about cutting into them but once started, fine. Managed to keep crud guards in place on fronts too and packed gaps with silicone. More worried about the rear with it being 5 door but again once started I just went with the flow.

On back arches and doors cut away the metal at the back of door and bent alloy door around it, then sealed the lot with silicone, dunno if it'll keep the water out yet, time will tell.

To be honest if I hadn't already bought the arches I would just leave then as they are cos for an off roader and not a family car I think it looks Ok ish.

After the cut, before the arch fitted:
http://i41.photobucket.com/albums/e2...n/IMG_2692.jpg

Arch fitted, not fitting bottom bit, gonna try something differant :wink:
http://i41.photobucket.com/albums/e2...n/IMG_2694.jpg
http://i41.photobucket.com/albums/e2...n/IMG_2698.jpg

Rear before:
http://i41.photobucket.com/albums/e2...n/IMG_2693.jpg

and after cut, but still plastic arch to cut and fit:
http://i41.photobucket.com/albums/e2...n/IMG_2699.jpg
Just got the tiding round them to do now and then the bottom panels and door bottoms, of which i have another idea. Did a series of pics if anyone interested in cutting the same way.
http://i41.photobucket.com/albums/e2...n/IMG_2703.jpg
http://i41.photobucket.com/albums/e2...n/IMG_2704.jpg
http://i41.photobucket.com/albums/e2...n/IMG_2705.jpg
http://i41.photobucket.com/albums/e2...n/IMG_2706.jpg
http://i41.photobucket.com/albums/e2...n/IMG_2707.jpg
http://i41.photobucket.com/albums/e2...n/IMG_2708.jpg
http://i41.photobucket.com/albums/e2...n/IMG_2709.jpg
http://i41.photobucket.com/albums/e2...n/IMG_2710.jpg

I wouldn't imagine it would be much differant to cut back a Nissan

(RIP) PLANK · 15-12-2007, 18:53

did you use neutral cure silicone? or the stuff that smells of vinegar? as the older sort that gives off acid as it sets will eat through your metal work in no time! I have seen it corrode through lead flashing!

looks a nice tidy job, well done!

15-12-2007, 20:45

Quote:

Originally Posted by PLANK

did you use neutral cure silicone? or the stuff that smells of vinegar? as the older sort that gives off acid as it sets will eat through your metal work in no time! I have seen it corrode through lead flashing!

looks a nice tidy job, well done!

Thanks Chris.

The older stuff that smells of vinegar, its alloy body so I'm hoping it'll be Ok

Terranosaurus · 15-12-2007, 21:08

Quote:

Originally Posted by cameraman

The older stuff that smells of vinegar, its alloy body so I'm hoping it'll be Ok

You may be in more trouble than if it was steel. Alluminium is more reactive that iron/steel, it is usually protected buy the anodising/oxidation on the outside but both acids and alkalis remove this layer to expose bare metal. Time will tell I suppose, the stuff you needed is sold as RTV silicon.

(RIP) PLANK · 15-12-2007, 21:24

look out for white powdery residues, as Humingbird says it can be worse on non ferrous metals. if you go to any good building or roofing merhcants and ask for neuutral cure silicone, they will supply it at no real increase in cost as it is now widely used as it is the only thing for using where any metal work is concerned, I keep a stock of a few different colours and i only buy neutral cure as you can use ot for anything.

It used to be exspensive and only for lead flashing and sticking mirrors on but now it is about the same price!

your other option for water proff sealing is acrylic sealer, not quite as durable as silicone, but you can overpaint it easily (unlike silicone) and it doesnt corrode metal as fcar as i am aware.

20-09-2007, 20:52	#16
jace Guest Posts: n/a	i looked at disco once itd got 3.2 patrol engine in but it got hot really quick normal discos just seem blurgghh when you rev em just dont seem to have any oomph to em being a bosch pump it should be easily tweaked though!

22-09-2007, 22:23	#17
Guest Posts: n/a	Well, I've just done around 12 hours in Derbyshire, including the mighty Stanage. Had a fantastic day and only one problem ops: whoever fitted the brand new starter motor, did it wrong, ascending Stanage the wires burnt out causing a minor burn out and then no starter working, not sure yet if its the wiring or starter that will need replacing ops: Try bump starting backwards downhill on Stanage ops: Still managed to complete the day by bumping it, so glad I didn't buy an auto now : Really looking forward now to 13 October to do it all again

22-09-2007, 23:39	#18
jace Guest Posts: n/a	bound to be big relay somewhere thats took brunt of it

22-09-2007, 23:44	#19
jace Guest Posts: n/a	theres a little round bowl type fuel filter at rear discos underneath usally gets ignored and fills with filth whilst your underneath lol!

23-09-2007, 21:59	#21
Guest Posts: n/a	Some photos of it in action: Couple of pics one that show the axle articulation on the standard set up, and one of going up Stanage, taken by Killrag http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y15...ES22090749.jpg http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y15...ES22090764.jpg Taken by Doodlebugs son Dan: Pindale: http://i191.photobucket.com/albums/z...7/P1060541.jpg Stanage: http://i191.photobucket.com/albums/z...7/P1060553.jpg Houndkirk: http://i191.photobucket.com/albums/z...7/P1060568.jpg Shatton: http://i191.photobucket.com/albums/z...7/P1060590.jpg http://i191.photobucket.com/albums/z...7/P1060591.jpg http://i191.photobucket.com/albums/z...7/P1060592.jpg Short vid of Killrag behind me finishing Stanage, taken by his wife on her camera phone http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5n4xyigaCCc One from Jimbo of Stanage http://i205.photobucket.com/albums/b...7/DSC00081.jpg

24-09-2007, 15:45	#22
bigjim Senior Member Join Date: Sep 2006 Posts: 549	looks like you are getting in some serious rough terrain in the landie looks well sorted have fun enjoy 8) :

30-11-2007, 15:15	#23
Guest Posts: n/a	I feel like I'm getting somewhere now. Its lifted and stood on bigger rubber, Insa special traks at 32". Probably going to have to cut the arches and rock sliders back a bit to get full articulation which means fitting rubber arches so more expense :roll: http://i41.photobucket.com/albums/e2...man/Rocky2.jpg http://i41.photobucket.com/albums/e2...man/Rocky1.jpg

01-12-2007, 02:01	#25
Guest Posts: n/a	Them tyres are going out to play in just a few hours time : So I'll soon know if I've spent wisely and need the body cutting.

15-12-2007, 17:37	#26
Guest Posts: n/a	Well I've had to cut the body back substantially. Was dead worried about cutting into them but once started, fine. Managed to keep crud guards in place on fronts too and packed gaps with silicone. More worried about the rear with it being 5 door but again once started I just went with the flow. On back arches and doors cut away the metal at the back of door and bent alloy door around it, then sealed the lot with silicone, dunno if it'll keep the water out yet, time will tell. To be honest if I hadn't already bought the arches I would just leave then as they are cos for an off roader and not a family car I think it looks Ok ish. After the cut, before the arch fitted: http://i41.photobucket.com/albums/e2...n/IMG_2692.jpg Arch fitted, not fitting bottom bit, gonna try something differant :wink: http://i41.photobucket.com/albums/e2...n/IMG_2694.jpg http://i41.photobucket.com/albums/e2...n/IMG_2698.jpg Rear before: http://i41.photobucket.com/albums/e2...n/IMG_2693.jpg and after cut, but still plastic arch to cut and fit: http://i41.photobucket.com/albums/e2...n/IMG_2699.jpg Just got the tiding round them to do now and then the bottom panels and door bottoms, of which i have another idea. Did a series of pics if anyone interested in cutting the same way. http://i41.photobucket.com/albums/e2...n/IMG_2703.jpg http://i41.photobucket.com/albums/e2...n/IMG_2704.jpg http://i41.photobucket.com/albums/e2...n/IMG_2705.jpg http://i41.photobucket.com/albums/e2...n/IMG_2706.jpg http://i41.photobucket.com/albums/e2...n/IMG_2707.jpg http://i41.photobucket.com/albums/e2...n/IMG_2708.jpg http://i41.photobucket.com/albums/e2...n/IMG_2709.jpg http://i41.photobucket.com/albums/e2...n/IMG_2710.jpg I wouldn't imagine it would be much differant to cut back a Nissan

15-12-2007, 18:53	#27
(RIP) PLANK Senior Member Join Date: Mar 2006 Location: Central England, in the Heart of the Black Country Vehicle: T2 2004 TDI SE LWB Posts: 7,740	did you use neutral cure silicone? or the stuff that smells of vinegar? as the older sort that gives off acid as it sets will eat through your metal work in no time! I have seen it corrode through lead flashing! looks a nice tidy job, well done!

15-12-2007, 21:24	#30
(RIP) PLANK Senior Member Join Date: Mar 2006 Location: Central England, in the Heart of the Black Country Vehicle: T2 2004 TDI SE LWB Posts: 7,740	look out for white powdery residues, as Humingbird says it can be worse on non ferrous metals. if you go to any good building or roofing merhcants and ask for neuutral cure silicone, they will supply it at no real increase in cost as it is now widely used as it is the only thing for using where any metal work is concerned, I keep a stock of a few different colours and i only buy neutral cure as you can use ot for anything. It used to be exspensive and only for lead flashing and sticking mirrors on but now it is about the same price! your other option for water proff sealing is acrylic sealer, not quite as durable as silicone, but you can overpaint it easily (unlike silicone) and it doesnt corrode metal as fcar as i am aware.