Another Tale of Terrano Starting Woes

[solarman216]

Yes the feed pipes, to be sure they need to be right out of the way but do not bend them, yes intercooler off as well, Rick

[nimbinbid]

Just lost a more detailed post after clicking the quick post button. Our modern internet seems dodgier than than the old dial up variety.
Not the best angle, but I couldn't see anything squirting while I reached through the driver's window to turn the motor as I peered under the bonnet . Gave it a couple of go's. No squirting detected, but might be done better with 2 people as the areas around the injector connections were wetter than when I started.
How much diesel am I looking for? Is any too much?
Done for today - Roy

[solarman216]

The injectors in this situation only contain residual fuel, what you are looking for is air from the compression blowing the fuel out indicating the needle is not seating, it might only do it once or twice before all the fuel is gone, if this happens just top the injectors up again so that all have fuel to the top, yes 2 people are better as it will happen very quickly, any fuel movement from the injectors means they are bad, Rick

[nimbinbid]

Makes sense . Will look for a helper tomorrow.

[nimbinbid]

Couldn't see any thing blowing out from top of injectors. In fact there's still residual fuel. Checked banjo bolt, but no spring or filter to be found. Removed fuel filter, looks clean inside, diesel was clean too.

While priming fuel filter, noticed one of the scavenge pipes had come off and the metal stem was gurgling diesel as I pumped. Reconnected pipe and finished primping. By this time extra hands were gone. so unable to redo the injector test in case it made a difference.

Any thoughts, where to from here? Roy

[solarman216]

No nothing you have done will have made any difference to the injector test, the fact they still had fuel in them is good, you still need to remove the pressure regulator valve at the front of the pump, it has a round head with two flats on it, 10mm open end spanner fits but you may not get it out with one if it is at the wrong angle, but without checking the piston in this valve is perfectly free you cannot go further, Rick

[solarman216]

This is what you are looking for, the spring ring goes in last to stop the piston falling out, to remove it you will need to make a small hook from something like welding wire, Rick

[nimbinbid]

First week as a pensioner and dementia seems to have struck already. Can't for the life of me locate this valve. Does the manifold need to be removed to access it? Which is the front of the pump? Had imagined it was the part that faced the front of the car, which appears to be wrong.

Replaced splitting scavenge pipes and rear bushes instead, then got on with some gardening for my sanity. Roy

[solarman216]

It is right at the front of the pump next to the flange that bolts the pump to the timing cover, from drivers position it is to the right of the fuel inlet pipe, Rick

[nimbinbid]

Removed battery and power steering pump.

Found it at last? Hidden under inlet fuel line. Removed 10mm bolt with rounded head and 2 flat sides from position in photo.

[nimbinbid]

Injector pump was replaced about 7 years ago.

All that came from opening is shown in photo. Have syringed fuel out but cannot see any sign of spring or piston. Have also fished around with hook with same result. Could this be a modified valve? Have provided close-up. Or am I looking in the wrong place.

I'm sure nothing got lost while I removed bolt. Roy

[solarman216]

If you look into the top hole in your pic you can see the spring, now turn it upside down and push a small screwdriver into the hole in the bottom it will contact a piston about 6mm in, gently push this piston which should move freely against the spring pressure and return again with no stickiness at all, any problems here and it will not run correctly, also although you have removed the return banjo I see no comment as to the orifice drilled into the side of the banjo bolt, it is very small and has to be completely clear, the valve in your pic and this orifice work together to stabilise the internal pump pressure, Rick

[solarman216]

Looking at your picture again the spring ring is protruding from the bottom making it easy for you to remove, however that is not its correct position, it should be pressed in flush, in the position it is in it will badly effect the pump pressure, but before you push it in I suggest you strip the 3 components out and check the piston and bore for scratches with a magnifying glass if any are found it will not be serviceable, this is what you should see, Rick

[nimbinbid]

Thanks Rick, that's cleared things up for me.

Valve is back in car overnight. Will give it a go tomorrow. Just like to add that the spring ring appears to be in there quite solidly, no movement noticed. Why is there a hook cut into bottom of ring? Any special technique for removal if ring proves stubborn?

Orifices in pump body clear. Noticed something metallic in bolt hole, assumed it was a ball bearing but must have been the spring. Appeared clean, though couldn't find magnifying glass at the time.

What's the verdict if this part proves to be defective? Your time is much appreciated. Roy

[solarman216]

If you pushed the piston against the spring and it moved freely with no sticking then it is probably OK but if it sticks at all then a replacement is the only option, the spring ring is split and the split is staggered so it keeps its shape when being pushed in, a pair of thin nosed pliers will pull it out, do not put the piston in without the spring, it will go in further than its normal working area and will get stuck and be very difficult to get out again, Rick