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Old 23-05-2014, 22:54   #16
Adz
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yea i think it holds a shade under 6 ltrs but i havent done mine in nearly a year
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Old 23-05-2014, 23:01   #17
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It holds around 7 litres but always put in just over 6 litres start it up then check the oil & then add what ever is needed
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Old 23-05-2014, 23:07   #18
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Banshee View Post
Way way way easier through the wheel arch matey, if you are flexiblish, it can even be done on full lock without removing the wheel

The strap type wrenches are the best for this job and they are best removed with the engine warmish
Lol don't think I'm very flexible wheel off it is.
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Old 24-05-2014, 03:33   #19
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fill the oil filter before you put it on
I do it from the top too
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Old 24-05-2014, 04:56   #20
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IF all else fails ram a screw driver through it and turn.
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Old 24-05-2014, 06:15   #21
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bud View Post
IF all else fails ram a screw driver through it and turn.


This reminds me of a great day, I was dropping the oil on my triumph motorcycle, drained oil, went to remove filter, no joy, so as a final last resort we rammed a screwdriver through the filter as a lever, went to turn and ripped clean through the filter

In the end, I had to get my dad to hop on his bike... And ride 30 miles to a triumph dealership for an official removal tool
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Old 24-05-2014, 06:44   #22
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bud View Post
IF all else fails ram a screw driver through it and turn.
This is an acceptable way of getting off a filter, and one I have used in the past, even on my Terrano.

However with no disrespect to you, or the advice you have offered Alex. I generally use a long flat screwdriver and hammer, but carefully drive the filter off by tapping the seam where the filter canister is joined to the part that holds the threaded part.

This way you are less likely to reach a 'point of no return'

Regards

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Old 24-05-2014, 06:52   #23
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TONUP View Post
This is an acceptable way of getting off a filter, and one I have used in the past, even on my Terrano.

However with no disrespect to you, or the advice you have offered Alex. I generally use a long flat screwdriver and hammer, but carefully drive the filter off by tapping the seam where the filter canister is joined to the part that holds the threaded part.

This way you are less likely to reach a 'point of no return'

Regards

Alan
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Old 24-05-2014, 09:46   #24
rustic
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bud View Post
IF all else fails ram a screw driver through it and turn.
Use only this method though to remove the filter, DO NOT tighten it this way...

When complete check for leaks especially on the top of the oil filter.
Some times you have to use the strap wrench to give it an extra 1/8 turn

When fitting a new filter, smear the rubber seal with some clean oil, mind you, when you 3/4 + fill the filter with new oil, you will probably do this anyway.

Why fill the filter?
When you start up, the oil pump has to fill the filter BEFORE any oil flows around the engine to lubricate it . The filling saves several seconds of dry running.

Most garages can't be a***d to this, it's not their engine, it probably won't make any noticeable difference in the first 100000 miles... but then most of our trucks are beyond this, and these engines are good for 300000 miles.
IF looked after...

Oh when you have the wheel off, grease the steering stops, then crawl under to do the other side too.


Timing.
Jack car up remove wheel and support on axle stands 5 minutes.

Remove rubber liner on near side to access oil filter 1-2 minutes.

Remove sump plug to start to drain oil into a suitable container, to which you have spread newspapers around to catch the splashes of the flowing oil, 5 minutes.

While oil is draining, remove the oil filter, your standard chain wrench doesn't work, so you look for an alternative wrench, can't find one, so you tear into the side of the filter with a screwdriver, forgetting it is still full of oil, which now goes everywhere, then you realise that because the filter is pointing upwards, that you have been trying to undo it the wrong way, and you have been tightening it all this time... Finally feel satisfaction that you have now removed the filter.
Timing from 5 to 55 minutes

You then clean up the oil filter housing face, take your new filter, 3/4 fill or more with new oil, oil the seal, then attempt to get it over the chassis rail, without spilling it, you struggle then to locate the filter onto the filter thread, trying to remember which way it goes to tighten it, however the filter has slipped out of your hand due to it's slippery surface, most of the oil is now dripping off the front diff, and you mutter " which stupid idiot told me to fill it with oil ?" eventually you get it tightened up. 5-45 minutes.

You now remember,you must put the sump plug back, can't find it, then you remembered it slipped out of your hand and went to the bottom of dirty oil container. Having eventually found it, you replace the washer, or I use some special sealant on the old washer face, then you tighten it up. 5 -25 minutes

You then fill with oil to the correct level, approx 5.5 -6 litres, check level, add more, then run engine check for leaks, and stop the engine wait a few minutes, and check oil level. 5-10 minutes.

Clean up all oil of the engine, chassis, floor, hands, shoes etc, then decant the old oil into containers ready for environmental disposal. 10 - 60 minutes.


Now...
you could do the job in around 30 minutes, but it might take all day...
OR LONGER...


Things that can go wrong.
Sump plug strips either when trying to undo, or tighten. Make sure you use a ratchet wrench and check it goes in the right direction, BEFORE going underneath.
You didn't buy enough oil, as most of it is now on the floor, as either you spilt most from the new oil filter, or you forgot to put the sump plug back
You have the wrong oil filter, and have to find someone to take you to a suitable stockist But they might be shut, or have no stock.

This section is reserved for Alex, to fill in what went wrong that I didn't anticipate........










To be fair the first time is a real pig...
Then you learn how to do it, I used to do the earlier changes via the top, standing an a suitable step, but now easier via the wheel arch.

The under engine cover, well... you can do a change without spilling more than an egg cup full, BUT you can also spill a lot onto this cover, so you might be best to remove the cover anyway before you start, and then clean that up as the previous owners have probably spilt oil too...


Good luck.
__________________
Ford Maverick GLX 1995 2.7TD LWB in illusion silver, 98k miles. Owned since new, for 22 years.
Best car I have ever owned.
Just wish I could drive it more.
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Old 24-05-2014, 09:52   #25
AlexD333
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rustic View Post
Use only this method though to remove the filter, DO NOT tighten it this way...

When complete check for leaks especially on the top of the oil filter.
Some times you have to use the strap wrench to give it an extra 1/8 turn

When fitting a new filter, smear the rubber seal with some clean oil, mind you, when you 3/4 + fill the filter with new oil, you will probably do this anyway.

Why fill the filter?
When you start up, the oil pump has to fill the filter BEFORE any oil flows around the engine to lubricate it . The filling saves several seconds of dry running.

Most garages can't be a***d to this, it's not their engine, it probably won't make any noticeable difference in the first 100000 miles... but then most of our trucks are beyond this, and these engines are good for 300000 miles.
IF looked after...

Oh when you have the wheel off, grease the steering stops, then crawl under to do the other side too.


Timing.
Jack car up remove wheel and support on axle stands 5 minutes.

Remove rubber liner on near side to access oil filter 1-2 minutes.

Remove sump plug to start to drain oil into a suitable container, to which you have spread newspapers around to catch the splashes of the flowing oil, 5 minutes.

While oil is draining, remove the oil filter, your standard chain wrench doesn't work, so you look for an alternative wrench, can't find one, so you tear into the side of the filter with a screwdriver, forgetting it is still full of oil, which now goes everywhere, then you realise that because the filter is pointing upwards, that you have been trying to undo it the wrong way, and you have been tightening it all this time... Finally feel satisfaction that you have now removed the filter.
Timing from 5 to 55 minutes

You then clean up the oil filter housing face, take your new filter, 3/4 fill or more with new oil, oil the seal, then attempt to get it over the chassis rail, without spilling it, you struggle then to locate the filter onto the filter thread, trying to remember which way it goes to tighten it, however the filter has slipped out of your hand due to it's slippery surface, most of the oil is now dripping off the front diff, and you mutter " which stupid idiot told me to fill it with oil ?" eventually you get it tightened up. 5-45 minutes.

You now remember,you must put the sump plug back, can't find it, then you remembered it slipped out of your hand and went to the bottom of dirty oil container. Having eventually found it, you replace the washer, or I use some special sealant on the old washer face, then you tighten it up. 5 -25 minutes

You then fill with oil to the correct level, approx 5.5 -6 litres, check level, add more, then run engine check for leaks, and stop the engine wait a few minutes, and check oil level. 5-10 minutes.

Clean up all oil of the engine, chassis, floor, hands, shoes etc, then decant the old oil into containers ready for environmental disposal. 10 - 60 minutes.


Now...
you could do the job in around 30 minutes, but it might take all day...
OR LONGER...


Things that can go wrong.
Sump plug strips either when trying to undo, or tighten. Make sure you use a ratchet wrench and check it goes in the right direction, BEFORE going underneath.
You didn't buy enough oil, as most of it is now on the floor, as either you spilt most from the new oil filter, or you forgot to put the sump plug back
You have the wrong oil filter, and have to find someone to take you to a suitable stockist But they might be shut, or have no stock.

This section is reserved for Alex, to fill in what went wrong that I didn't anticipate........










To be fair the first time is a real pig...
Then you learn how to do it, I used to do the earlier changes via the top, standing an a suitable step, but now easier via the wheel arch.

The under engine cover, well... you can do a change without spilling more than an egg cup full, BUT you can also spill a lot onto this cover, so you might be best to remove the cover anyway before you start, and then clean that up as the previous owners have probably spilt oil too...


Good luck.
Best write up ever

and it's me proof too

hopefully gonna tackle it v soon, just waiting on a free garage.

5W30 on tap so shouldnt run out either

I demand this be made a sticky
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Old 24-05-2014, 10:04   #26
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Quote:
Originally Posted by The Patrolman View Post
Wow only 5Ltrs

Troll took 9.5Ltrs n 2 filters

Yeah they are greedy girls ain't they lol


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Old 24-05-2014, 10:06   #27
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Originally Posted by spinna View Post
Yeah they are greedy girls ain't they lol


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At Jaguar cost the oil alone would be £118.75 for a Trol
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Old 24-05-2014, 10:08   #28
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Strewth. To think I pay less than half that, iirc


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Old 24-05-2014, 10:16   #29
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Strewth. To think I pay less than half that, iirc


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Thats without labour too

it'd be another 0.5 hrs = £66inc for lab

bringing your total to £184.75

when shall I book you in sir?
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