Waxoil

[jims-terrano]

Can someone show me what Waxoil is.

I've used loads of different underseals some even state added waxoil. Just lately Ive been using some aerosol underseal which is a heck of a lot easier than brushing it on but I know it is an expensive way of doing it. To be honest the black underseals that I have used never really seem to do that well and I feel there must be a better way.

[S_Richardson]

Here you go Jim:

http://www.halfords.com/motoring/pai...ofing-black-5l

If I'm remembering correctly this can also be sprayed on. Using one of those cheap garden sprayers.

[Fez_uk]

I always found waxoil to be a bit sh!t as it comes off too easily. Ok for inside the chassis rails thinned a bit with heat, turps or oil but no point on the outside to be honest.

[Monaro Pete]

Get some Dynax S50.

Very easy to work with. Can be spayed or brushed.

Comes in spray cans or a five litre drum.

I bought a five litre drum & sprayed it on, I did the whole of the under side of my truck & I was quite liberal with it. I still have over a just remaining for just in case.

Spraying it is a doddle

[jims-terrano]

Originally Posted by S_Richardson

Here you go Jim:

http://www.halfords.com/motoring/pai...ofing-black-5l

If I'm remembering correctly this can also be sprayed on. Using one of those cheap garden sprayers.

WTF! This stuff says it kills rust? Have I been wasting my time running around painting rust treatment on for all these years when really all I needed to do was a quick wire brush and spray this stuff on?

What do people use to spray it?

[Daemo]

I use dinitrol as it comes in 1litre bottles and it goes on with a shults gun, black stuff on the outer chassis brown stuff on the inside of everywhere..
Not the time of year to be doing it though its a shit job in the summer, chassis needs to be bone dry otherwise you just seal the dampness in.

Personally im not a waxoyl fan for 4x4's, good on cars but trucks have high impact areas and it washes off after a few months. I paid to have my old rangie done but didnt last long in alot of areas..

[macabethiel]

The rusting of the Iron component in the steel used in most vehicles is a fairly well understood chemical reaction. Forgive me if I am repeating what you already know but it worth the reminder.

You need two things present for Iron to rust - Oxygen usually from the air we call our atmosphere and water. When rust starts to get a hold of steel the first problem is that just covering it in any old paint can actually make it worse in that the continuing corrosion is often going on between the layer of paint and the old metal surface. A process called Osmosis then sucks in the required air and moisture.
Many paints are porous to some degree and allow the water and oxygen to slip through the tiny gaps between the paint molecules.

To effectively stop further corrosion you need to ideally stop the contact between air and the water. This is in reality almost impossible especially when you look further into the various types of steels that are of course alloys containing other element including metals e.g. Chromium and non metals such as Carbon.

The best we can hope for is to slow down the oxidation or rusting process by doing our best to cover the metal surface with coatings that will create effective barriers. Galvanizng (Zinc Coating) is quite effective on new steel and has been used by the likes of Volkswagen since the late 1980's.

If you keep your vehicle dry, clean and apply an effective under body coating you can extend the life of your bodywork.
If you are a gun owner then you will know about "Bluing" the layer on the outside of the metal work that will not rust easily. The Bluing is in fact most commonly Magnetite a Black Iron Oxide outer layer.
At one time you could spray your under body with a Phosphoric Acid based compound that would oxidise the rust over a period of time to form a protected layer of Magnetite on the surface. You then later washed off the residual Acid Layer and applied a non-porous layer of paint or used a paint such as Red Oxide as a sort of sacrificial protective layer.

Theses days I use an under body paint that has elasticity as part of it protective cover. Where I have the meeting of metals such as the steel ends of brake hoses I try to cover these in Waxoyl to form a seal to keep out moisture and air. Obviously applying this to already corroding unions often means the Waxoyl falls off and needs re-applying frequently. A good Jet washer will remove Waxoyl quite easily as the adhesion between the Waxoyl and the Chassis is often weaker than the adhesion between Mud and Waxoyl !

Another draw back with Waxoyl is it's inflammable so beware when welding. I saw a lovely Vauxhall PA Cresta that had its interior gutted when the owner was welding a rear sill and the Waxoyl in the rear screen pillar caught fire spreading to the vehicle headlining.

As I do not have access to spraying equipment I use Aerosols usually containing some Waxoyl to spray underneath my vehicles. I re-touch where required whenever I replace brakes or carry out any work requiring the vehicle to be jacked up.

The fitting of wheel arch liners has done much to improve the lifespan of outer wing panels by keeping water and salt out. TBH the Manufacturers don't want your vehicle to last too long they want to sell you a shiny new one when the warranty expires. They will have to wait a long time in my case as I tend to buy in the 5-10 year old zone only lol

[Banshee]

Originally Posted by Fez_uk

I always found waxoil to be a bit sh!t as it comes off too easily. Ok for inside the chassis rails thinned a bit with heat, turps or oil but no point on the outside to be honest.

You can't have been applying it right then mate or didn't do a good enough clean up job before you applied it, if you've sprayed it on top of dirt or flaky rust then of course it's going to drop off, I spent 4 hours prepping the underside of my car before I even opened the tin.

The urge is to always just slap it straight on, but the proof is in the prep!!!!

[Fez_uk]

Originally Posted by Banshee

You can't have been applying it right then mate or didn't do a good enough clean up job before you applied it, if you've sprayed it on top of dirt or flaky rust then of course it's going to drop off, I spent 4 hours prepping the underside of my car before I even opened the tin.

The urge is to always just slap it straight on, but the proof is in the prep!!!!

It dries (if at all) too soft, Put a light sprinkle of water washing the mud off and it comes off with it.

[Banshee]

Originally Posted by Fez_uk

It dries (if at all) too soft, Put a light sprinkle of water washing the mud off and it comes off with it.

I jet washed mine underneath yesterday on the chassis and it took mud and left my waxoyl on

Sent from my SM-G930F using Tapatalk

[panelbeater]

at last fire has been brought up,all the coatings that i know burn so repairing work is always dodgy,seen to many cars alight when someone does a fast repair.
in the trade the phosphoric acid treatment was always used on repairs even on door skins etc to preserve the life of the panels.
in old days good of old old oil sprayed on every year did the trick but underside had to be steam cleaned and dry befor applying.
black cabs still have to have this done yearly.
biticherman type coatings are only as good as the surface its put on.
yes i know you need truck up high sand blast all suspect areas then acid it then wash it then dry it then coat it red lead or zink then spray over with whatever you want.job will last but still needs yearly top up.

[macabethiel]

Originally Posted by Banshee

You can't have been applying it right then mate or didn't do a good enough clean up job before you applied it, if you've sprayed it on top of dirt or flaky rust then of course it's going to drop off, I spent 4 hours prepping the underside of my car before I even opened the tin.

The urge is to always just slap it straight on, but the proof is in the prep!!!!

Back in 1978 I had a Mini Cooper Body Shell minus its interior, engine and sub frames sat on my drive on four old oil drums. I wanted to restore the vehicle as I had owned it for some 5 years and planned to keep it for another 5 years at least. There was no rush to get it back on the road and over about a 9 month period I had new sills, front wings, front panel, and rear boot floor repair panel welded and/or brazed in position by a local mobile welder.

I spent many a happy weekend underneath the body shell with my drill powered wire brushes. I then coated the whole of the underside including wheel arches, inner wings, outer wings, sills etc etc with a layer of thin glass fiber tissue paper that I dabbed in place with glass fiber resin. I then applied a finished gel coat when the initial layer had dried.

I then applied Waxoyl on top and re-fitted the sub-frames. This proved quite difficult at the rear as the layer of glass fiber had effectively moved the sub-frame back slightly so the rear mounts would not align. I had the front mounts machined to allow for the thickness of glass fiber and gel coat.

I kept the Cooper for another 5 years and after I sold it to a friend bought it back again some 3-4 years later for another couple of years of ownership. The body work kept really well though some MoT testers took some convincing that I had not bodged the underneath to hide rust !

[panelbeater]

not herd of that befor

[macabethiel]

Originally Posted by panelbeater

not herd of that befor

Never done it again as it is very time consuming and you need nice warm summer weather for the glass fiber gel to set before it starts to run!

The Austin Mini Cooper LOV378F is shown as untaxed on the DVLA website page part posted below.





TA This is a new service – your feedback will help us to improve it.
Registration number: LOV 378F
✗ Untaxed
Tax due: 01 July 1989
MOT
Exempt
If you have just purchased this vehicle, you must tax it even if it shows as taxed above. Vehicle tax cannot be transferred from keeper to keeper.

If you have taxed, made a SORN or had an MOT it can take up to 5 days for these details to be shown above.

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Vehicle details
Vehicle make AUSTIN Date of first registration 10 January 1968 Cylinder capacity (cc) 1275 cc CO₂Emissions Not available Fuel type PETROL Export marker No Vehicle status Not taxed Vehicle colour GREY Vehicle type approval Not available Wheelplan 2 AXLE RIGID BODY

[Monaro Pete]

I'm sure some sad act that drives German could make a private plate from that LOV3 78F