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Old 20-10-2013, 10:54   #1
Terranical
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Default Transfer box oil leak

Does anyone have an idea how much of a job it is to replace the front propshaft to transfer box oil seal, mine has leaked for ages, and with winter coming, my daughter who uses my T2 when I'm not in Spain, is worried about using 4wd on her mountain track.
It's highly probable that the transfer box has no oil at all in it.
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Old 20-10-2013, 20:20   #2
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Does anyone have an idea how much of a job it is to replace the front propshaft to transfer box oil seal, mine has leaked for ages, and with winter coming, my daughter who uses my T2 when I'm not in Spain, is worried about using 4wd on her mountain track.
It's highly probable that the transfer box has no oil at all in it.
Anybody?
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Old 20-10-2013, 20:30   #3
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Sadly i've no idea how big a job it's to do but if I get time tomorrow i'll have a look at mine
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Old 20-10-2013, 20:33   #4
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Sadly i've no idea how big a job it's to do but if I get time tomorrow i'll have a look at mine
Ta muchly!
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Old 20-10-2013, 20:56   #5
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Does anyone have an idea how much of a job it is to replace the front propshaft to transfer box oil seal, mine has leaked for ages, and with winter coming, my daughter who uses my T2 when I'm not in Spain, is worried about using 4wd on her mountain track.
It's highly probable that the transfer box has no oil at all in it.
Not difficult, remove the prop from the transfer box, undo the centre nut, will be tight, put a couple of long bolts in two of the prop bolt holes and use a bar to hold the flange, if you use the box set in low in gear then there is a lot of force going through the gear chain that would be better to avoid, once the nut is off slide of the flange, drill a small hole in the seal, making sure first the replacement is the correct one, and screw in a self taping screw a couple of turns, then pull the old seal out with the screw, if it proves stubborn try two screws one each side, clean it all up and tap in the new seal till flush with the case, top up the oil, reassemble the flange and prop, Rick
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Old 20-10-2013, 20:58   #6
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Not difficult, remove the prop from the transfer box, undo the centre nut, will be tight, put a couple of long bolts in two of the prop bolt holes and use a bar to hold the flange, if you use the box set in low in gear then there is a lot of force going through the gear chain that would be better to avoid, once the nut is off slide of the flange, drill a small hole in the seal, making sure first the replacement is the correct one, and screw in a self taping screw a couple of turns, then pull the old seal out with the screw, if it proves stubborn try two screws one each side, clean it all up and tap in the new seal till flush with the case, top up the oil, reassemble the flange and prop, Rick
Brilliant! Just what I needed to know - thanks Rick.
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Old 20-10-2013, 21:02   #7
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The front shaft must be fixed into the transfer box, as it has a sliding joint on the prop shaft, unlike the rear, which just slides out.

I don't know how it attaches, have you looked at the manual in down load section?

Don't forget though, that drive to the rear wheels go through the transfer box all the time so if you suspect low oil... then you had better check it.

How much oil do you loose, I had a slight oil leak on the rear seal to rear prop shaft, one drop per month... BUT when I read the advantages of using Molyslip in the gearbox, one was that it softened the seals and helped to prevent oil leaks.

It worked, not a drop since, and no splashes on the box, the gearbox is totally clean all round.

How do I know ?... my garage floor is painted, so I would know if there were any leakages of anything.

But if your bearings have gone in the box, ( I doubt that, not if you have auto hubs) then no amount of molyslip will help.

Rustic
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Old 20-10-2013, 21:06   #8
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The front shaft must be fixed into the transfer box, as it has a sliding joint on the prop shaft, unlike the rear, which just slides out.

Rustic
4 bolts at each end Rustic, leaves you with a flange like the rear diff, Rick
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Old 20-10-2013, 21:30   #9
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4 bolts at each end Rustic, leaves you with a flange like the rear diff, Rick
So is that the flange that comes off when you undo the nut on the end?
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Old 21-10-2013, 00:00   #10
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So is that the flange that comes off when you undo the nut on the end?
yep nut very tight but undo it and all is well, Rick
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Lokka on the front with manual hubs
Diff lock on rear
3 inch SS straight through exhaust
Manly winch bumper with 13000 lb winch
10 spike ground anchor, with multiple straps and blocks
Super strong body cills capped with scaffold pole
20% stronger springs all round
aggressive off road tyres on wheels so just swap.
Aim to get stuck and be completely self sufficient in extraction, love getting muddy, 2ft deep is good but rare.
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