Go Back   :::.Nissan 4x4 Owners Club.::: > General > The Clubs Virtual Pub

The Clubs Virtual Pub For general chat, so come on in and pull up a chair.

Reply
 
Thread Tools Display Modes
Old 08-03-2013, 20:53   #1
kwondo
Senior Member
Click here to find out how to become a paid up member
 
Join Date: Feb 2006
Location: wales
Vehicle: Ford Maverick 2.7tdi gls
Posts: 307
Default Mot advisory notice

Hi all my mav passed its mot today with 3 advisory's
1. parking brake lever has little reserve travel
2. advise engine warning light
3. advise starting problems
i geuss i have to look at these
1. i presume this means it goes up to far.... easy to adjust, no problems
2.warning light on dash is because....see item 3
3. educate tester how not to stall car and wait for the heater coil to go off before trying to start ,

another year of happy motoring.....maintaining, repairing and spending money on it, would'nt change it though unless i could afford a newer one
kwondo is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-03-2013, 21:13   #2
makeitfit
Senior Member
Click here to find out how to become a paid up member
 
Join Date: Apr 2008
Location: on the beach WEST WALES
Vehicle: Maverick TDi BLACK mmm
Posts: 15,136
Default

Top day out boyo, well done
Shame about the oik tester
makeitfit is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-03-2013, 21:20   #3
solarman216
Off road maniac
Click here to find out how to become a paid up member
 
solarman216's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2009
Location: Bexhill on Sea
Vehicle: Y60 Patrol Me, 3 ltr Mrs
Posts: 17,431
Default

do not adjust the cable it must be dome at the wheels drums off, Rick
__________________
Ex banger racer now off road maniac
Lokka on the front with manual hubs
Diff lock on rear
3 inch SS straight through exhaust
Manly winch bumper with 13000 lb winch
10 spike ground anchor, with multiple straps and blocks
Super strong body cills capped with scaffold pole
20% stronger springs all round
aggressive off road tyres on wheels so just swap.
Aim to get stuck and be completely self sufficient in extraction, love getting muddy, 2ft deep is good but rare.
solarman216 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-03-2013, 21:26   #4
kwondo
Senior Member
Click here to find out how to become a paid up member
 
Join Date: Feb 2006
Location: wales
Vehicle: Ford Maverick 2.7tdi gls
Posts: 307
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by solarman216 View Post
do not adjust the cable it must be dome at the wheels drums off, Rick
wheel drums off and ajusted at the adjusters before mot, i loosend the cable right off before i adjusted, i thought it would be just adjusting at the hand brake lever again, or maybee not what do you think?
kwondo is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-03-2013, 21:30   #5
stinka
Senior Member
Click here to find out how to become a paid up member
 
Join Date: Feb 2012
Location: Staffs
Vehicle: '02 Terrano TDI sport lwb
Posts: 3,787
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by solarman216 View Post
do not adjust the cable it must be dome at the wheels drums off, Rick
This.

I've done mine twice in last 12 months.

First wind off handbrake cable under lever, to end of thread

Drop drums off, check lip, if its more than 1mm grind it off.

Adjust shoe adjuster up a few clicks, refit drum and hit a few times with hammer, turn, hit again, aplly foot brake... Do this to re-center shoes, then remove and adjust shoe adjuster again. Keep going until it just goes on, with a tad of friction.

I get mine solid so it will only just turn by hand, then take it for a drive, hammer the brakes on rd test, come back and jack it up and check the rear wheels haven't bound due to heat expansion
stinka is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-03-2013, 21:34   #6
solarman216
Off road maniac
Click here to find out how to become a paid up member
 
solarman216's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2009
Location: Bexhill on Sea
Vehicle: Y60 Patrol Me, 3 ltr Mrs
Posts: 17,431
Default

me jumping to conclusions, but I have said this many times before, there are two tell tale buttons on the rear of the back plates with the HB on you will be able to push them in a few mm they might be stuck if not used for a long time, the let the HB off and you will find they will be pushed fully out by the levers on the brake shoes, now you can adjust the cables to take up the slack but when finished the buttons must still be fully out, ie you should not be able to push them in, Rick
__________________
Ex banger racer now off road maniac
Lokka on the front with manual hubs
Diff lock on rear
3 inch SS straight through exhaust
Manly winch bumper with 13000 lb winch
10 spike ground anchor, with multiple straps and blocks
Super strong body cills capped with scaffold pole
20% stronger springs all round
aggressive off road tyres on wheels so just swap.
Aim to get stuck and be completely self sufficient in extraction, love getting muddy, 2ft deep is good but rare.

Last edited by solarman216; 08-03-2013 at 21:44. Reason: missed a bit
solarman216 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-03-2013, 21:47   #7
kwondo
Senior Member
Click here to find out how to become a paid up member
 
Join Date: Feb 2006
Location: wales
Vehicle: Ford Maverick 2.7tdi gls
Posts: 307
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by stinka View Post
This.

I've done mine twice in last 12 months.

First wind off handbrake cable under lever, to end of thread

Drop drums off, check lip, if its more than 1mm grind it off.

Adjust shoe adjuster up a few clicks, refit drum and hit a few times with hammer, turn, hit again, aplly foot brake... Do this to re-center shoes, then remove and adjust shoe adjuster again. Keep going until it just goes on, with a tad of friction.

I get mine solid so it will only just turn by hand, then take it for a drive, hammer the brakes on rd test, come back and jack it up and check the rear wheels haven't bound due to heat expansion
thanks did that, and went for a drive, checked drums werent bound, and were burnt fingers on drum so loosened off as bit, but think problem is with cable on lever, cheers
kwondo is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-03-2013, 21:51   #8
rustic
Senior Member
Click here to find out how to become a paid up member
 
rustic's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2007
Location: Staffordshire
Vehicle: Maverick Mk I 2.7 TD LWB
Posts: 7,825
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by stinka View Post
Adjust shoe adjuster up a few clicks, refit drum and hit a few times with hammer, turn, hit again...
I would advise against hitting a cast drum with a hammer, you could put a hairline crack in it.

Either use a mallet, or a hammer and a piece of hardwood, so you don't get metal on metal.

best regards,

Rustic
__________________
Ford Maverick GLX 1995 2.7TD LWB in illusion silver, 98k miles. Owned since new, for 22 years.
Best car I have ever owned.
Just wish I could drive it more.
rustic is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-03-2013, 21:52   #9
kwondo
Senior Member
Click here to find out how to become a paid up member
 
Join Date: Feb 2006
Location: wales
Vehicle: Ford Maverick 2.7tdi gls
Posts: 307
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by solarman216 View Post
me jumping to conclusions, but I have said this many times before, there are two tell tale buttons on the rear of the back plates with the HB on you will be able to push them in a few mm they might be stuck if not used for a long time, the let the HB off and you will find they will be pushed fully out by the levers on the brake shoes, now you can adjust the cables to take up the slack but when finished the buttons must still be fully out, ie you should not be able to push them in, Rick
thanks solarman, i presume that these little buttons can be seen from underneath looking at the back of the plate, are they metal? will take a look tomorrow and have a go, cant see them on the manual, my mav is a 2.7tdi non abs if that makes any difference, I have never attepted to bleed the LSV ......SHOULD I ....dont want to snap the nipple, although i dont think this will effect the handbrake?
kwondo is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-03-2013, 21:53   #10
kwondo
Senior Member
Click here to find out how to become a paid up member
 
Join Date: Feb 2006
Location: wales
Vehicle: Ford Maverick 2.7tdi gls
Posts: 307
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by rustic View Post
I would advise against hitting a cast drum with a hammer, you could put a hairline crack in it.

Either use a mallet, or a hammer and a piece of hardwood, so you don't get metal on metal.

best regards,

Rustic
i used a copper hammer
kwondo is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-03-2013, 22:00   #11
stinka
Senior Member
Click here to find out how to become a paid up member
 
Join Date: Feb 2012
Location: Staffs
Vehicle: '02 Terrano TDI sport lwb
Posts: 3,787
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by solarman216 View Post
me jumping to conclusions, but I have said this many times before, there are two tell tale buttons on the rear of the back plates with the HB on you will be able to push them in a few mm they might be stuck if not used for a long time, the let the HB off and you will find they will be pushed fully out by the levers on the brake shoes, now you can adjust the cables to take up the slack but when finished the buttons must still be fully out, ie you should not be able to push them in, Rick
Not on the later c200 axle models mate
stinka is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-03-2013, 22:02   #12
stinka
Senior Member
Click here to find out how to become a paid up member
 
Join Date: Feb 2012
Location: Staffs
Vehicle: '02 Terrano TDI sport lwb
Posts: 3,787
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by rustic View Post
I would advise against hitting a cast drum with a hammer, you could put a hairline crack in it.

Either use a mallet, or a hammer and a piece of hardwood, so you don't get metal on metal.

best regards,

Rustic
I've been hitting drums hard with a hammer for 20 yrs and never had or heard of a cracked drum.
stinka is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-03-2013, 22:12   #13
solarman216
Off road maniac
Click here to find out how to become a paid up member
 
solarman216's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2009
Location: Bexhill on Sea
Vehicle: Y60 Patrol Me, 3 ltr Mrs
Posts: 17,431
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by stinka View Post
Not on the later c200 axle models mate
have not seen one of them so I stand corrected, Rick
__________________
Ex banger racer now off road maniac
Lokka on the front with manual hubs
Diff lock on rear
3 inch SS straight through exhaust
Manly winch bumper with 13000 lb winch
10 spike ground anchor, with multiple straps and blocks
Super strong body cills capped with scaffold pole
20% stronger springs all round
aggressive off road tyres on wheels so just swap.
Aim to get stuck and be completely self sufficient in extraction, love getting muddy, 2ft deep is good but rare.
solarman216 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-03-2013, 22:17   #14
kwondo
Senior Member
Click here to find out how to become a paid up member
 
Join Date: Feb 2006
Location: wales
Vehicle: Ford Maverick 2.7tdi gls
Posts: 307
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by solarman216 View Post
have not seen one of them so I stand corrected, Rick
but is it on my model 2.7tdi gls 1999 maverick
kwondo is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-03-2013, 22:20   #15
stinka
Senior Member
Click here to find out how to become a paid up member
 
Join Date: Feb 2012
Location: Staffs
Vehicle: '02 Terrano TDI sport lwb
Posts: 3,787
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by kwondo View Post
but is it on my model 2.7tdi gls 1999 maverick
I think 2000 was the year they went from the bomb proof h233b to the shite French Renault commissioned money saving version of the old C200 axle
stinka is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply

Thread Tools
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is On

Forum Jump


All times are GMT +1. The time now is 10:42.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.11
Copyright ©2000 - 2024, vBulletin Solutions Inc.
Images online photo albums