Cleaning concrete splashes

CaptLimey · 17-09-2012, 20:18

Anyone know an easy way to clean concrete splashes from painted metal? My newly acquired 2003 Benford PS 3000 dumper needs a new paint job but, like a lot of dumpers, the front axle and wheels are covered in concrete from splashes when tipping. Is there a more efficient way of removing the concrete than the 'chippy chippy bang bang' hammer method? For example is there an acid (hydrochloric?) or other chemical that will soften or remove it? Any advice gratefully received.
Rgds CL

cncfabs · 17-09-2012, 20:30

Quote:

Originally Posted by CaptLimey

Anyone know an easy way to clean concrete splashes from painted metal? My newly acquired 2003 Benford PS 3000 dumper needs a new paint job but, like a lot of dumpers, the front axle and wheels are covered in concrete from splashes when tipping. Is there a more efficient way of removing the concrete than the 'chippy chippy bang bang' hammer method? For example is there an acid (hydrochloric?) or other chemical that will soften or remove it? Any advice gratefully received.
Rgds CL

Looks pretty tidy to me

makeitfit · 17-09-2012, 20:43

Shot/bead blast it

clivvy · 17-09-2012, 20:51

im with MakeItFit, shot blast it! especially if you are repainting anyway!

Lazy-Ferret · 17-09-2012, 20:52

Wickes sell a "Brick & Mortar Cleaner", it is an acid in a 5 litre plastic container.

http://www.wickes.co.uk/invt/153779

Worked a dream for cleaning up my dodgy brick work. Use a stiff brush to put it on and work it in, and it leaves just the sand. The Jet wash got that off. In one or two places I had to re-do it, as it was to thick, but basically it works well.

makeitfit · 17-09-2012, 21:16

It's ok for cement stains but it won't cut that lot off the dumper. It's also diluted big time so it can be sold over the counter.
You can however get proper acid from a chemist

but that causes issues with wash off and pollution and skin disappears bla bla

Blast it

solarman216 · 17-09-2012, 21:54

makeitfit is not wrong, acid will do nothing other than fizz and splutter, and when you wash it off the concrete is cleaner!! no, grit blasting is the answer and if you are going that far, paint it before it starts to show rust haze with 2 part epoxy, never need to paint it again, Rick

CaptLimey · 18-09-2012, 20:07

Thanks for all the input/interest guys. Shot blasting sounds like the ideal solution but here in darkest France shot blasters are few and far between. Another suggestion received is to use a needle gun, I have a beefy compressor so that may be my preferred option - anyone know a good source for needle guns? Hydrochloric acid is also an option, I can buy it locally, combined they may do the trick. Thanks for the advice.
Rgds CL

briggie · 18-09-2012, 20:17

is this any help ?

http://www.ehow.com/how_4881579_clea...e-off-car.html

solarman216 · 18-09-2012, 21:02

A needle gun is an option, nothing like as effective as blasting and will not get into nooks a crannies, the hydrochloric acid is what brick cleaner is, if you can get high strength then it will bubble and fizz more but not a lot else except attack other items you would it rather not, braiding on hoses for instance will rust soon after, and some forms of rubber seals will not like it, oh and needle guns are very noisy wear good ear muffs, Rick

rayf3262 · 18-09-2012, 22:15

hydrofluoric acid is the stuff for concrete, just check what it does to other materials though.

solarman216 · 18-09-2012, 22:28

Quote:

Originally Posted by rayf3262

hydrofluoric acid is the stuff for concrete, just check what it does to other materials though.

Are you sure you got that right Hydrofluoric acid if I remember correctly is the stuff that if it contacts your hand it eats into it and the only cure is amputation, Rick

rayf3262 · 18-09-2012, 22:31

Quote:

Originally Posted by solarman216

Are you sure you got that right Hydrofluoric acid if I remember correctly is the stuff that if it contacts your hand it eats into it and the only cure is amputation, Rick

Yup that's the stuff, attacks the silica in the concrete, also why you will never see it stored in glass vessels, they dissolve too.
Read the MSD before going near it!
Probably cost a fortune for the PPE to use it safely.
I believe there are more user friendly alternatives available now though.

solarman216 · 18-09-2012, 22:38

Think you and I think the same way, I can be a bit extreme as well, Rick

(RIP) PLANK · 18-09-2012, 23:16

It sounds, to me, like a needle gun, chisel and wire brush are the only practical solutions. other than leaving it as it is :

machine mart might be a good starting point

17-09-2012, 21:54	#7
solarman216 Off road maniac Join Date: Dec 2009 Location: Bexhill on Sea Vehicle: Y60 Patrol Me, 3 ltr Mrs Posts: 17,430	makeitfit is not wrong, acid will do nothing other than fizz and splutter, and when you wash it off the concrete is cleaner!! no, grit blasting is the answer and if you are going that far, paint it before it starts to show rust haze with 2 part epoxy, never need to paint it again, Rick __________________ Ex banger racer now off road maniac Lokka on the front with manual hubs Diff lock on rear 3 inch SS straight through exhaust Manly winch bumper with 13000 lb winch 10 spike ground anchor, with multiple straps and blocks Super strong body cills capped with scaffold pole 20% stronger springs all round aggressive off road tyres on wheels so just swap. Aim to get stuck and be completely self sufficient in extraction, love getting muddy, 2ft deep is good but rare.

18-09-2012, 21:02	#10
solarman216 Off road maniac Join Date: Dec 2009 Location: Bexhill on Sea Vehicle: Y60 Patrol Me, 3 ltr Mrs Posts: 17,430	A needle gun is an option, nothing like as effective as blasting and will not get into nooks a crannies, the hydrochloric acid is what brick cleaner is, if you can get high strength then it will bubble and fizz more but not a lot else except attack other items you would it rather not, braiding on hoses for instance will rust soon after, and some forms of rubber seals will not like it, oh and needle guns are very noisy wear good ear muffs, Rick __________________ Ex banger racer now off road maniac Lokka on the front with manual hubs Diff lock on rear 3 inch SS straight through exhaust Manly winch bumper with 13000 lb winch 10 spike ground anchor, with multiple straps and blocks Super strong body cills capped with scaffold pole 20% stronger springs all round aggressive off road tyres on wheels so just swap. Aim to get stuck and be completely self sufficient in extraction, love getting muddy, 2ft deep is good but rare.

18-09-2012, 22:38	#14
solarman216 Off road maniac Join Date: Dec 2009 Location: Bexhill on Sea Vehicle: Y60 Patrol Me, 3 ltr Mrs Posts: 17,430	Think you and I think the same way, I can be a bit extreme as well, Rick __________________ Ex banger racer now off road maniac Lokka on the front with manual hubs Diff lock on rear 3 inch SS straight through exhaust Manly winch bumper with 13000 lb winch 10 spike ground anchor, with multiple straps and blocks Super strong body cills capped with scaffold pole 20% stronger springs all round aggressive off road tyres on wheels so just swap. Aim to get stuck and be completely self sufficient in extraction, love getting muddy, 2ft deep is good but rare.

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17-09-2012, 20:43	#3
makeitfit Senior Member Join Date: Apr 2008 Location: on the beach WEST WALES Vehicle: Maverick TDi BLACK mmm Posts: 15,136	Shot/bead blast it

17-09-2012, 20:51	#4
clivvy Senior Member Join Date: Mar 2009 Location: Huddersfield Vehicle: Terrano 03 LWB Posts: 6,947	im with MakeItFit, shot blast it! especially if you are repainting anyway!

17-09-2012, 20:52	#5
Lazy-Ferret Senior Member Join Date: Jun 2012 Location: Sevenoaks, Kent Vehicle: Terrano 2.7TDi SE Touring Posts: 5,221	Wickes sell a "Brick & Mortar Cleaner", it is an acid in a 5 litre plastic container. http://www.wickes.co.uk/invt/153779 Worked a dream for cleaning up my dodgy brick work. Use a stiff brush to put it on and work it in, and it leaves just the sand. The Jet wash got that off. In one or two places I had to re-do it, as it was to thick, but basically it works well.

17-09-2012, 21:16	#6
makeitfit Senior Member Join Date: Apr 2008 Location: on the beach WEST WALES Vehicle: Maverick TDi BLACK mmm Posts: 15,136	It's ok for cement stains but it won't cut that lot off the dumper. It's also diluted big time so it can be sold over the counter. You can however get proper acid from a chemist but that causes issues with wash off and pollution and skin disappears bla bla Blast it

18-09-2012, 20:07	#8
CaptLimey Senior Member Join Date: Nov 2007 Location: South of France Vehicle: '03 LWB MK.4 3Ltr T2 Posts: 421	Thanks for all the input/interest guys. Shot blasting sounds like the ideal solution but here in darkest France shot blasters are few and far between. Another suggestion received is to use a needle gun, I have a beefy compressor so that may be my preferred option - anyone know a good source for needle guns? Hydrochloric acid is also an option, I can buy it locally, combined they may do the trick. Thanks for the advice. Rgds CL

18-09-2012, 20:17	#9
briggie Senior Member Join Date: Mar 2010 Location: peoples democratic republic of west yorkshire Vehicle: " alice " Posts: 10,473	is this any help ? http://www.ehow.com/how_4881579_clea...e-off-car.html

18-09-2012, 22:15	#11
rayf3262 Senior Member Join Date: Nov 2009 Location: Norfolk, Poringland NR14 Vehicle: Terrano 3.0 SVE 2002 Posts: 1,549	hydrofluoric acid is the stuff for concrete, just check what it does to other materials though.

18-09-2012, 23:16	#15
(RIP) PLANK Senior Member Join Date: Mar 2006 Location: Central England, in the Heart of the Black Country Vehicle: T2 2004 TDI SE LWB Posts: 7,740	It sounds, to me, like a needle gun, chisel and wire brush are the only practical solutions. other than leaving it as it is : machine mart might be a good starting point