02-02-2012, 16:55 | #1 |
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Dollywobbler's Maverick
I'd better start a thread for this I guess.
Here's my 2.4i Maverick swb. Today I started the servicing. While the oil was draining, and after discovering that I'd been sent the wrong spark plugs, I decided to investigate the horrific sounding brakes. Here's a small clue that all was not well. What surprises me is that it's only in the last few miles that a grinding sound has been heard. I got caught out because a quick inspection when I had the tyres changed revealed only that the other pad had plenty of meat on it. Unsurprisingly, the disc is knackered too. This'll be why! Seized pistons in the brake caliper. I'm trying to get my hands on a second-hand replacement, but have ordered new pads and discs. With that trauma behind me, I set about changing the oil filter. Easy! Er, no. Most of you know about this, but for those that don't, here's the oil filter seen from above. It's that blue thing that's out of focus. Access via the inner wheelarch isn't a whole lot better, but I was helped by the fact that the filter was seemingly only finger-tight... I hope I've done a better job of fitting the replacement. I also dropped and replaced the coolant, though I couldn't flush it out as I'd hoped as my outside tap had frozen solid. It was bloody cold today. However, after successfully 'burping' the system, the heater seems better! Quite pleased about that. Had to put the caliper back on the Mav so I could move it, albeit with handbrake only. To be continued... |
02-02-2012, 18:03 | #2 |
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Yep its cold out there today. Dont forget to read the download before you change the discs and pads. regards bri
http://www.nissan4x4ownersclub.com/d...kshop/wk36.pdf |
02-02-2012, 18:10 | #3 |
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Thanks. As with the other stuff I've already downloaded and digested, that's a very useful guide. Guess I should do the job properly and lube up the hubs while they're off.
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02-02-2012, 18:27 | #4 |
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what's up with the old calliper? I have had stuck sliders and with perseverance and some penetrating oil it can be fixed
'edit' just read your caption to the above photo doh.... |
02-02-2012, 18:30 | #5 |
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getting there. try ringing rose garages in tregaron, they may have one there scrap.
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02-02-2012, 18:54 | #6 |
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Thanks Fez. I'll give 'em a try tomorrow. At least at the end of all this, I'll know what's what. And hopefully avoid any nasty surprises come MOT time...
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02-02-2012, 20:14 | #7 |
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while u got the tyre off chuck some grease on the stearing stops heard folks on hear saying about thudding noise on full lock and seams to be the solution to this
might not be a prob now but in couple of month after all that work u might be wishing u had done it good thread keep up the good work |
02-02-2012, 20:21 | #8 |
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nice job mate, bet it runs really well now.
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03-02-2012, 12:57 | #9 |
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Hi
Are you the same DOLLYWOBBLER from RetroRides/Autoshite Fame?? Im on there too |
03-02-2012, 13:25 | #10 |
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Any idea how you differentiate between the two types of caliper on these? Apparently some have cut-outs for the hose locating lug, and the other type don't. I've no idea what I've got! Don't know if this pic helps.
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03-02-2012, 15:51 | #11 |
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Sorted. It's the type the chap had in stock so it's now on its way, with discs and pads coming from somewhere else. Hope the weather's nice next week...
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06-02-2012, 13:32 | #12 |
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Ugh. Unsurprisingly, the caliper sliders are borked. Managed to get one out with a bit of gentle persuasion, the other one required some rather firmer treatment! I lack a vice, so opted to try and remove the sliders on the car. Lots of penetrating oil, some 'back and forth' with a spanner (some taps with a hammer were needed to get it moving) and then hitting it with a chisel in the direction I wanted it to go eventually had the thing out. It took a LOT of walloping! No wonder the brakes weren't working properly...
Naturally, the rubber boots were a casualty, and the sliders themselves look dreadful, so I guess this job's on hold while I buy some more bits. Have caliper, pads and discs, so hopefully it won't be too long until it's all sorted! |
06-02-2012, 15:32 | #13 | |
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Quote:
You will also have to remove the wheel bearings, and the bearing nut is a great piece of engineering, held together with a small pozidrive screw, I think there is a down load on this. DON'T loose the screw... TIP: don't push the driveshaft inwards when re-assembling as it needs a gorilla to push it back in from the back so you can get the snap ring back on.... Quite a few members would have no problem with this.... I made that error, and it was quite a maul but dooable... Think safety.... Axle stands all round, I even put the removed wheel under the chassis, with some blocks of wood to save damage to the rim, should it slip. You are looking at a 2+ hour job each side, so why not grease the bearings, Auto Hubs, so read up on those tasks while you are waiting for the bits to arrive. Get some copper slip ( Grease) for the pins, for the rear of the new pads.
__________________
Ford Maverick GLX 1995 2.7TD LWB in illusion silver, 98k miles. Owned since new, for 22 years. Best car I have ever owned. Just wish I could drive it more. |
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06-02-2012, 17:09 | #14 |
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Thanks. I've been reading the download on the disc change with great interest. I was indeed planning on greasing up the hubs, though rain stops play now - that and the fact that I've failed to locate sliders and rubbers! (have now though)
Some great tips there though. I'll try not to repeat your mistakes! (but I don't make any promises...) |
06-02-2012, 17:51 | #15 |
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stuck sliders? looks like my advice wasn't so wrong after all
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