oil change question

[kitchenman]

Hi guys, I just got a 94 Maverick from a local dealer [Westcliff Essex], he sorted out a major problem, poor power output lack of revs, not apparent when I bought it, snow on the roads. Workshop 10 was the answer.

Now I want to change all the oils but have been warned by another 4x4 owner to prime the turbo before starting the engine after the oil change.

I do not understand the warning as this is the first vehicle I have had with a turbo

Is he getting me worried for nothing? or is there a know how trick?

[tezzer]

never heard of priming turbo myself, i just change oil, when you change rear diff oil, make sure you can undo filler plug first, they can be very tight, and use lsd diff oil, check the down loads for information,

welcome to the club, im not to far from you, laindon,

[solarman216]

priming the turbo simply means let the motor idle till the oil pressure gets up before you give it some revs, at idle the turbo is not doing a lot but when you give it some revs it starts working just like you should let it idle for a minute or so before shutting down, but this is standard turbo practice, Rick

[R1cho]

Originally Posted by solarman216

priming the turbo simply means let the motor idle till the oil pressure gets up before you give it some revs, at idle the turbo is not doing a lot but when you give it some revs it starts working just like you should let it idle for a minute or so before shutting down, but this is standard turbo practice, Rick

see thats why i like this owners club, i knew u had to let the engine idle for a while before turning off, but i never knew why, now i do

[rustic]

Originally Posted by R1cho

see thats why i like this owners club, i knew u had to let the engine idle for a while before turning off, but i never knew why, now i do

2 reasons for this:1

1 reving the engine will leave the turbo spinning after you have turned the engine off, may starve it of oil.

2 If the engine is really hot when you turn off the engine the oil in the bearings could cook.

[lacroupade]

TBH I think wait time before switch off is not necessary on these trucks.

I drive at the limit most of the time and all four of my T2s have been thrashed soundly and never had a turbo problem in 100s of 000s of miles....but thats just me (as Ssteve is wont to say LOL)....

[rustic]

Originally Posted by tezzer

when you change rear diff oil, make sure you can undo filler plug first, they can be very tight, and use lsd diff oil, check the down loads for information,

Just a thought for anyone who has made the error of draining the diff oil, before removing the filler plug which may have seized.

On outboard engines, on the gearbox we fill from the bottom plug and wait for it to flow out of the plug at the top. Put the top plug in then replace the lower plug, very little oil loss.


So consider this: make up a diff sump plug ???? with a clear pipe attached, could be a cork even.

Fill the diff from the bottom with warm LSD oil, using a funnel in the pipe, observe when the final level is at the bottom of the top plug, approx 2.9 litres, by checking the level in the pipe against the diff.
At this point you could block off the axle vent to stop air getting in to slow the flow,
Remove the plug/cork and insert the sump plug, prepare for leakage, but at least it can be done and you can be sure you have the right amount in.

It will take a while as the top vent on the diff has to vent the displaced air.

This method could be used for gearboxes, transfer boxes as well as diffs.

Not tried it on a car but it should work fine.

[BigBlack]

Originally Posted by lacroupade

TBH I think wait time before switch off is not necessary on these trucks.

Gotta be honest, not something I do religiously either!!!
Generally if Ive been cruising down the motorway for a couple of 100 miles towing then I leave it for a minute of two ticking over.

Never heard of 'priming the turbo' before chaning the oil though? I do stick a tin of oil flush (forgot exact name) in it the day before draining the old oil out though

[mowerman]

Hi, I am fairly new to Terrano/Mav's and dont live a million miles from you as I am in Rayleigh. I changed all my oils when I got the truck in the summer... engine, axle, gearbox, transfer box and front diff.... as said before make sure you get the correct spec oils... you MUST use LSD oil in the rear diff... got mine off the internet mail order (think it was a place called wilkos?? up north..) got the lot for about £50 delivered but then you do need quite a bit .. was at least half the price of Halfords etc... It did make a big difference to, especially in the rear axle

Oil filter is a bit of a bugger on my 2002 T2 not sure what it is like on other models... Oh and a half inch socket wrench fits the drain plugs perfectly in axles etc.... also if your doing the gearbox the filler is higher than the surrounding body so is a sod to fill up using those little bottle jobbies... might be worth using a bit of hose pipe from engine bay down to the filler (makes it a 2 man job but with hindsight a lot easier) and remember to warm the oil first in this weather.... sorry to go on a bit here but a fairly easy job all round....

Agree with others that I just let the truck idle for a minute before i turn off if it has been driven hard or towing just to let the turbo settle

[lacroupade]

Originally Posted by mowerman

Hi, I am fairly new to Terrano/Mav's and dont live a million miles from you as I am in Rayleigh. I changed all my oils when I got the truck in the summer... engine, axle, gearbox, transfer box and front diff.... as said before make sure you get the correct spec oils... you MUST use LSD oil in the rear diff... got mine off the internet mail order (think it was a place called wilkos?? up north..) got the lot for about £50 delivered but then you do need quite a bit .. was at least half the price of Halfords etc... It did make a big difference to, especially in the rear axle

Oil filter is a bit of a bugger on my 2002 T2 not sure what it is like on other models... Oh and a half inch socket wrench fits the drain plugs perfectly in axles etc.... also if your doing the gearbox the filler is higher than the surrounding body so is a sod to fill up using those little bottle jobbies... might be worth using a bit of hose pipe from engine bay down to the filler (makes it a 2 man job but with hindsight a lot easier) and remember to warm the oil first in this weather.... sorry to go on a bit here but a fairly easy job all round....

Agree with others that I just let the truck idle for a minute before i turn off if it has been driven hard or towing just to let the turbo settle

they are all identical....you should have removed the inner wheel arch cover

[kitchenman]

Thanks for the update, always best to get it from the horses mouth rather than old wives tales

Joining this club has got to be the best tenner I spent for a very long time

[kitchenman]

UPDATE, several guys said getting the filter of is a pain, I got this a tool from Halfords part number 926535 http://www.halfords.com/webapp/wcs/s...egoryId_165469

Dead easy works

Fits fuel filter too

[mowerman]

Excellent... just ordered one myself ... have a devil of a job to get the oil filter tight enough on my T2... it has 'undone' itself twice now in 3000 miles ... nothing too bad just enough to allow the oil to start to weep out and run down onto the front diff.... at least that wont ever go rusty !!!! ... any ideas which filter is best??? last one came from EUROPARTS and was Jap spec (assume so as had japanese writing on it....)

I am due to do another oil/filter change in a few miles so will see if it helps

[danielj]

Originally Posted by kitchenman

UPDATE, several guys said getting the filter of is a pain, I got this a tool from Halfords part number 926535 http://www.halfords.com/webapp/wcs/s...egoryId_165469

Dead easy works

Fits fuel filter too

I use a similar type to that for changing oil filter. Easy job to get filter off. Its a little tricky to get the filter up and out with your hand once its off without dropping it and getting oil all over the place but getting the filter off is easy with that tool.

[rustic]

Originally Posted by danielj

I use a similar type to that for changing oil filter. Easy job to get filter off. Its a little tricky to get the filter up and out with your hand once its off without dropping it and getting oil all over the place but getting the filter off is easy with that tool.

Even trickier getting the new filter in when it's 90% filled with new oil.

Part filling it saves wear and tear, as the components have to wait until the oil filter is full before they get lubricated.
90% full means you have oil pressure in about a second rather than the several seconds it takes to fill the filter.

I slacken the filter, either from above or now via the nearside wheel arch, and remove it from the top having put paper roll underneath. I put the partly filled new filter in from the top and spin it on from above. NOT YET dropped it, and I have been doing this for a long time.

Last time I couldn't undo it with my normal strap wrench, so I put on a rubber glove and it undid by hand easily.

Tightening it from the top is difficult, much easier from the wheel arch. Remove wheel put on axle stands, and remove rubber cover.
Touch up any rust spots and coat all metal in waxoyl.