Hydrolic tipper wiring - Page 2

solarman216 · 09-11-2010, 21:22

Sorry got a bit busy this evening, but I d not think it really deserves a diagram,
If you are grounding the motor on the chassis, then you only need one long heavy lead (Starter motor size) from the battery pos terminal to an isolater switch best mounted through the back of the cab or similar with the removeable key switch in side, from there to the motor and this is the lower right hand bolt, with a good crimp on or solder spade terminal on the wire, all you need now is a board or similar with two sturdy push buttons, one marked "up" one "down", wire one side of each button with 2.5 mm flexible cable together and take it to earth/chassis/ground, the other side of the "Up" button goes the short lead on the left in the picture, the other side of the "Down" button goes to the longer lead on the right, no need for relays unless you plan to have a long wander lead for the button board, any questions please get back, Rick

Deleted account DD · 10-11-2010, 09:03

Dont forget to fuse all of this and you may like to consider a couple of range of movement switches so it stops motoring when it reaches the end of the rams range (if it doesnt already have them) the reason for that isnt necessarily just stop it moving its a safety thing. im presuming thats an older power pack and hasnt been serviced for a while

so you dont know the state of the seals or the pressure relief valves

better to prevent than to try and cure it over pressurising and rupturing its little self if your running it on a simple on off push button system

Saw one of these style, a chunky dowty, blow and it was quite dramatic

solarman216 · 10-11-2010, 10:46

Daved is right, I forgot those little points, if you are going to put limit switches on, then a relay on the UP wiring will be best, as the extra wiring length up the chassis and back will cause voltage drop on the reasonable current draw of the motor solenoid, and the possibility of wiring heating, you can get round that if you like by running say 6 mm cable, if you have lots kicking around great but if you need to buy it then a relay is better with the ability to run much lighter wires, Rick

Terranoman · 10-11-2010, 11:46

Many thanks

Top people on here

Terranoman · 19-11-2010, 09:06

Got it working last night. Many thanks Rick.

Beats pumping the trailer up by hand

Mark

solarman216 · 19-11-2010, 11:25

Well done, Rick

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09-11-2010, 21:22	#16
solarman216 Off road maniac Join Date: Dec 2009 Location: Bexhill on Sea Vehicle: Y60 Patrol Me, 3 ltr Mrs Posts: 17,432	Sorry got a bit busy this evening, but I d not think it really deserves a diagram, If you are grounding the motor on the chassis, then you only need one long heavy lead (Starter motor size) from the battery pos terminal to an isolater switch best mounted through the back of the cab or similar with the removeable key switch in side, from there to the motor and this is the lower right hand bolt, with a good crimp on or solder spade terminal on the wire, all you need now is a board or similar with two sturdy push buttons, one marked "up" one "down", wire one side of each button with 2.5 mm flexible cable together and take it to earth/chassis/ground, the other side of the "Up" button goes the short lead on the left in the picture, the other side of the "Down" button goes to the longer lead on the right, no need for relays unless you plan to have a long wander lead for the button board, any questions please get back, Rick

10-11-2010, 09:03	#17
Deleted account DD Senior Member Join Date: Sep 2008 Posts: 4,705	Dont forget to fuse all of this and you may like to consider a couple of range of movement switches so it stops motoring when it reaches the end of the rams range (if it doesnt already have them) the reason for that isnt necessarily just stop it moving its a safety thing. im presuming thats an older power pack and hasnt been serviced for a while so you dont know the state of the seals or the pressure relief valves better to prevent than to try and cure it over pressurising and rupturing its little self if your running it on a simple on off push button system Saw one of these style, a chunky dowty, blow and it was quite dramatic

10-11-2010, 10:46	#18
solarman216 Off road maniac Join Date: Dec 2009 Location: Bexhill on Sea Vehicle: Y60 Patrol Me, 3 ltr Mrs Posts: 17,432	Daved is right, I forgot those little points, if you are going to put limit switches on, then a relay on the UP wiring will be best, as the extra wiring length up the chassis and back will cause voltage drop on the reasonable current draw of the motor solenoid, and the possibility of wiring heating, you can get round that if you like by running say 6 mm cable, if you have lots kicking around great but if you need to buy it then a relay is better with the ability to run much lighter wires, Rick

10-11-2010, 11:46	#19
Terranoman Senior Member Join Date: Dec 2008 Location: Northamptonshire Vehicle: Terrano II Posts: 622	Many thanks Top people on here

19-11-2010, 09:06	#20
Terranoman Senior Member Join Date: Dec 2008 Location: Northamptonshire Vehicle: Terrano II Posts: 622	Got it working last night. Many thanks Rick. Beats pumping the trailer up by hand Mark

19-11-2010, 11:25	#21
solarman216 Off road maniac Join Date: Dec 2009 Location: Bexhill on Sea Vehicle: Y60 Patrol Me, 3 ltr Mrs Posts: 17,432	Well done, Rick