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Old 04-09-2014, 12:27   #16
Banshee
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With a look of confusion on your face I bet
Oh yes!!!!!
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04' Terrano II SE 2.7 TDi SWB Commercial in Silver - Project Thread
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Old 04-09-2014, 14:44   #17
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I am a butcher and have actually used this saw a lot to break down lambs . ie in a factory so 2000 plus a day . but its been 5 years since I have worked there . but if I remember there should be adjustment dial for one of the pulley wheels to stop it from working off when turning . if you was closer I would gladly come and help
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Old 04-09-2014, 20:20   #18
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thanks Dave, there are two possible adjustments on the two pulleys, one is the backward tilt of the top pulley and the other is shimming of the carrier arm for the whole top assembly, this is on the slider that goes up and down to tension the blade, I use a straight edge to align both pulleys, Rick
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Old 04-09-2014, 20:22   #19
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Same principle as a band saw in a Saw mill...and resaws..(which is what I do)

THe saw will need tracking to run true....

it could have a crook /worn bearing which will create more pressure on one side of the band then the other causing it to move forward of the wheels.
Thanks bud, how do you "track" a saw, see prev post as to the only adjustments available, Rick
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Old 04-09-2014, 20:29   #20
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so far the manufacturers have not responded, my customer is currently looking to bid on a Hobart saw as he is getting Peed of cutting up two sides of beef a day by hand, this is getting really important now, thanks for your comments Rustic but it is now £200 to the person that can sort this, that is how important this customer is to me, Rick
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Old 04-09-2014, 20:39   #21
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thanks Dave, there are two possible adjustments on the two pulleys, one is the backward tilt of the top pulley and the other is shimming of the carrier arm for the whole top assembly, this is on the slider that goes up and down to tension the blade, I use a straight edge to align both pulleys, Rick
try tilting it forward a little so the blade sits back more an the bottom of the pulley they are not suppose to be in dead alignment . because if I remember they will always work forward
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Old 04-09-2014, 20:42   #22
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for bud, just had a thought, if I tilt the whole top assembly back a little so that the blade is able to stay against the bottom pulley flange and tilt the top pulley back a little as well does this make sense, by a little I mean a mm or so pulley to pulley, Rick
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Old 04-09-2014, 20:49   #23
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Long shot here ,have you tried another blade [band]?

Does it always jump off the same way?

Flip the blade inside out, if it slips off the other way then the blade [band] is at fault.

It has already been suggested the weld may be wonky, lay the blade [band] on a totally flat surface, there should be 100% contact, either way up particularly at the weld

Are the guides correctly aligned? Slack them off see if you get the same problem
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Old 04-09-2014, 20:52   #24
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rick it is defiantly the tlit pulley adjustment needed . the tension should be tight like 3mm movement in the blade . but to keep the blade on it is the tilt one . I can remember if we wanted a break we would just hit the back of the blade with our knifes to knock the blade off .
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Old 04-09-2014, 20:56   #25
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do the adjustments while you turn the pulley by hand and you should see the blade work back on then . the teeth of the blade should just be off the pulleys edge . plus it should be on a solid level floor and when you move it it may need readjustment
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Old 04-09-2014, 20:59   #26
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Ok, kim has found an answer for your problem - blade slipping off.

try putting a piece of very flat metal under the housing of the top wheel, It will lift up and tilt the wheel just enough to keep it from coming off.
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Old 04-09-2014, 21:07   #27
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kitchenman and dave, yes done all that, new blade just the same, seems to me the pulleys need to be out of alignment slightly ie bottom slightly / and top slightly \ and I mean slightly, will try this tomorrow, Rick
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Old 04-09-2014, 21:10   #28
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kitchenman and dave, yes done all that, new blade just the same, seems to me the pulleys need to be out of alignment slightly ie bottom slightly / and top slightly \ and I mean slightly, will try this tomorrow, Rick
rick .that's what I'm saying they need to be slightly out of alignment and the tilt adjustment should do this . you just need to keep adjusting till it settle
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Old 04-09-2014, 21:11   #29
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Ok, kim has found an answer for your problem - blade slipping off.

try putting a piece of very flat metal under the housing of the top wheel, It will lift up and tilt the wheel just enough to keep it from coming off.
Paaahhhh... see post 7.....
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Old 04-09-2014, 21:12   #30
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Ok, kim has found an answer for your problem - blade slipping off.

try putting a piece of very flat metal under the housing of the top wheel, It will lift up and tilt the wheel just enough to keep it from coming off.
this machine Alex has an adjuster bolt to do just that, no joy, Rick
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Lokka on the front with manual hubs
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3 inch SS straight through exhaust
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10 spike ground anchor, with multiple straps and blocks
Super strong body cills capped with scaffold pole
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aggressive off road tyres on wheels so just swap.
Aim to get stuck and be completely self sufficient in extraction, love getting muddy, 2ft deep is good but rare.
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