1996 maverick 2.7 Advice needed.

[emjaybee]

I looked at run of the mill shocks from motor factors, but they are all generic stuff. That's why I went for the Monroe gas shocks, I needed something that I could rely on to keep the truck stable on the highway . I had spoken to a local bloke who fitted motor factor specials on his truck and it still wallowed quite a bit.

[Banshee]

Originally Posted by David G Rand

Hi Ian,
Many thanks for your reply.
If you're ever in the Catfield area you're welcome to drop in for a cuppa and I'll take the opportunity to pick your brains.
My Maverick wallows about quite dangerously and I'm constantly fearful of roll induce oversteer on every corner!
I'm hoping to replace shocks in coming few days, but I don't want (can't afford) to spend money on a level of shocker which is designed for heavy duty off-roading, when I know I'll never do any off-roading, so any advice on the availability of suitable tarmac/highway shocks is welcome.
I now know that my Maverick's cam is driven by good oldfashioned metal cogs, but are there any belts which have to be replaced at a given mileage?
Is there anyone in the Norwich/Norfolk area that you would recommend for dealing with the worrying amount of rust that my Maverick has on its underbody? I've only owned the vehicle from the start of this month, but it's MOT (Feb 2015) mentions it in its advisory section and the first time I'll set eyes on it will be when it's on a ramp and having its shocks fitted - might have to keep my eyes closed!
My thanks to all you helpful posters.

David.

First thing you should have done before you even reached for your Wallet was to make sure there was no rust underneath!!!!

Everything else is cheap enough to fix but the rot is terminal in most cases, where have you checked?

[David G Rand]

Originally Posted by jims-terrano

Sorry can't help with garages in your area but full of support on here and photos of any problems always help so if ever you come across a problem with rust or anything else with the truck just post away.

Only belts are the alternator power steering and air con. No specific replacement intervals just inspections at service's. These trucks always benefit from oils changing and if you are unsure when any were last done then probably not a bad idea to get them changed but important thing is the grades and types of oils used.

Would you suggest, gearbox, axles and engine oil and filter, or just the engine oil and filter. Any advice on grades and types of oil? Clutch seems a trifle sharp - any way of adjusting it?
I'm in no position to work on Mav, myself, but if I know what can be done I know what to expect of the garage.

Thank you.

[David G Rand]

Originally Posted by Banshee

First thing you should have done before you even reached for your Wallet was to make sure there was no rust underneath!!!!

Everything else is cheap enough to fix but the rot is terminal in most cases, where have you checked?

With only 60,000 miles, four alloys with excellent tyres and unused tyre on spare and interior in excellent condition, I thought I'd risk it for £400.
Hope I don't live to regret that decision, but if it's a breaker you know where to get a low mileage engine!

David.

[Blocky10]

Rust could be the biggest most expensive problem if its not something you would tackle yourself and as it's a £400 motor, how much are you prepared to spend on welding time?

[David G Rand]

Originally Posted by Blocky10

Rust could be the biggest most expensive problem if its not something you would tackle yourself and as it's a £400 motor, how much are you prepared to spend on welding time?

As underbody rust seems to be the only problem and I'm a low mileage user, I'm prepared to spend £200 - £300 initially and if subsequent MOTs require a couple of hundred £s or so on an annual basis, I'd accept it as normal maintenance expenditure.
R B Chassis Welding, in south Norfolk have been recommended and as they've agreed to fit shocks for me I'll get an expert opinion on the rust problem at the same time.
If anyone has first hand experience of other good chassis welders closer to me (I'm at Catfield, in north Norfolk) I'd be mighty pleased to recieve that info.

David.

[Banshee]

Originally Posted by David G Rand

With only 60,000 miles, four alloys with excellent tyres and unused tyre on spare and interior in excellent condition, I thought I'd risk it for £400.
Hope I don't live to regret that decision, but if it's a breaker you know where to get a low mileage engine!

David.

I went to see a P reg that was an Ex Council vehicle and it looked immaculate!!!! he wanted £1500 for it so I thought, hang on this could be a gem.

Went there with a trailer to take it, exterior was immaculate, interior looked like it had never been sat in, 17,000 miles on the clock........... got underneath and it looked like it had been parked in the sea since new, such a shame, I could genuinely see carpet and into the cabin

[Blocky10]

Originally Posted by David G Rand

As underbody rust seems to be the only problem and I'm a low mileage user, I'm prepared to spend £200 - £300 initially and if subsequent MOTs require a couple of hundred £s or so on an annual basis, I'd accept it as normal maintenance expenditure.
R B Chassis Welding, in south Norfolk have been recommended and as they've agreed to fit shocks for me I'll get an expert opinion on the rust problem at the same time.
If anyone has first hand experience of other good chassis welders closer to me (I'm at Catfield, in north Norfolk) I'd be mighty pleased to recieve that info.

David.

If I remember correctly I paid around £150 for all 4 shocks from L&R. I've towed my twin axle caravan several hundred miles since fitting them and all is well still, so I can't complain. If I was thinking of going off road regular then I'd be buying from the companies these guys here have mentioned.
But first I'd have the possible rust repairs checked out.
Hopefully all will be well.

Ian

[Blocky10]

Hi David.
Is there an update for this post?

Ian