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Old 01-05-2016, 23:38   #1
Banshee
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Default Bolt Removal Extraction Kits

Guys if you've been following the updates from my Cavalier Project Thread you'll know that I've managed to snap a mild steel exhaust manifold stud in the ally head of my EcoTec which I've been told is a very common occurrence.

I'm going to buy a extraction kit to do it by I'm overwhelmed by the choice and different types

What's the difference between this one;
http://www.screwfix.com/p/trend-pro-...questid=310291

and this one;
http://www.screwfix.com/p/screw-extr...iece-set/18643

Which is the best set for this job?

Or can somebody link me to something better?
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Old 02-05-2016, 00:02   #2
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The big problem with all of these tapered extraction devices is they expand what is left of the stud once you have drilled it so making it tighter than it was, most are for all practical purposes useless, one of the best is the parallel shaft with 3 or 4 sharp vanes running the length of the shaft, you drill a hole the same diameter as the shaft and hammer it in, the sharp vanes cut into the stud and with a bit of heat on Ali it will come out easy, the next best is set a set of left hand drills, progressively, drill out the stud, usually when you get near to base size of the thread it just unscrews while you are drilling, incidentally cellulose thinners is a good release agent between Ali and steel, Rick
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Aim to get stuck and be completely self sufficient in extraction, love getting muddy, 2ft deep is good but rare.
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Old 02-05-2016, 00:17   #3
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Quote:
Originally Posted by solarman216 View Post
The big problem with all of these tapered extraction devices is they expand what is left of the stud once you have drilled it so making it tighter than it was, most are for all practical purposes useless, one of the best is the parallel shaft with 3 or 4 sharp vanes running the length of the shaft, you drill a hole the same diameter as the shaft and hammer it in, the sharp vanes cut into the stud and with a bit of heat on Ali it will come out easy, the next best is set a set of left hand drills, progressively, drill out the stud, usually when you get near to base size of the thread it just unscrews while you are drilling, incidentally cellulose thinners is a good release agent between Ali and steel, Rick
Have you got a link to a decent set Rick?
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Old 02-05-2016, 00:53   #4
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I've just purchased a set of cobalt left handed drill bits, I'll need a pilot hole anyway to use an extraction kit, hopefully when the left handed bit bites it will spin the stud out
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Old 02-05-2016, 11:48   #5
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don't worry if it all goes wrong, as long as the stud is out you can oversize the hole and use a helicoil kit, they come in all sizes and are great for restoring a knackered thread
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Old 02-05-2016, 12:11   #6
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Originally Posted by Mobieus_uk View Post
don't worry if it all goes wrong, as long as the stud is out you can oversize the hole and use a helicoil kit, they come in all sizes and are great for restoring a knackered thread
Watched a video of that last night too, looks like a decent bit of kit
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Old 02-05-2016, 13:30   #7
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I would agree with what Rick has said those tapered ones are really only any good for removing a snapped stud that is already loose I don't think it has any chance on a steel stud grown in to alloy.
I have good success removing studs with the mig. drop a washer on top of broken stud even if it has broken below the surface then fill up with weld right up to the washer allow it to cool then just undo it. In unlikely event it is still hanging on weld a nut to the washer so you have something better to grip to.
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Old 02-05-2016, 16:11   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Terrano Steve View Post
I would agree with what Rick has said those tapered ones are really only any good for removing a snapped stud that is already loose I don't think it has any chance on a steel stud grown in to alloy.
I have good success removing studs with the mig. drop a washer on top of broken stud even if it has broken below the surface then fill up with weld right up to the washer allow it to cool then just undo it. In unlikely event it is still hanging on weld a nut to the washer so you have something better to grip to.


Neat trick
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Old 09-05-2016, 09:08   #9
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OK guys so I used a left handed drill bit on the snapped stud and have gone as deep as I dare and it hasn't spun free, I have a 3mm hole now in the stud so I presume at this point it's extractor time

Space is tight as I've done it with engine still in the car by going in through the grille and have removed the radiator. Quick Tap with this spring loaded centre punch I have made a nice central point to start drilling and off I went with my 3mm left handed cobalt bit, slow and firm



After a few mins


End result

As for extractors I def want one that I can get a ratchet onto the end of, someone please link me to a decent set, I'm overwhelmed with the choice
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Toyo Open Country M/T 33's on 10J Steels, Super Strong Steering Job
Navara D22 Snorkel, Front LOKKA, Maunal Hubs, EGR Blank
TunitII ECU Chip, 3" Body Lift, 2" Suss Lift, Heat Exchanger
Black Interior, 3.0 Borg&Beck Clutch, Eckes Heated Fuel Filter


99' Y61 Patrol GR SE 2.8 TD6 LWB in Blue/Silver - Project Thread
Engine Transplant - In Progress!!!

Last edited by Banshee; 21-07-2017 at 09:03.
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Old 09-05-2016, 09:20   #10
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Not that it would be of any use in this situation, but I was watching an episode of Car SOS the other day and they were using one of these,an induction heator seems to work much better than a blow lamp and less risk of melting anything els

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gFh8Pci5gpc
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Old 09-05-2016, 11:03   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jonela View Post
Not that it would be of any use in this situation, but I was watching an episode of Car SOS the other day and they were using one of these,an induction heator seems to work much better than a blow lamp and less risk of melting anything els

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gFh8Pci5gpc
Cheers mate, that's a handy bit of kit actually although I don't think I'd have gone near the head with that as I've heard horror stories about the head warping and needing to be replaced on these.

After a lot of web trawling and looking through various different forums, I've bit the bullet and ordered a set of Sealey Square Taper type

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/2015368431...%3AMEBIDX%3AIT
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Old 09-05-2016, 13:11   #12
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No ware near deep enough, use one of the bolts you have out as a guide, then step up in drill sizes, hardest bit is starting off centre but looks like your spot on, it will either start to losen or you just keep going with drill bits until all thats left is thread that will peal out like tin foil
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Old 09-05-2016, 14:08   #13
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Holy moley, that is well in there mate, good luck fella.
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Old 09-05-2016, 14:31   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mobieus_uk View Post
No ware near deep enough, use one of the bolts you have out as a guide, then step up in drill sizes, hardest bit is starting off centre but looks like your spot on, it will either start to losen or you just keep going with drill bits until all thats left is thread that will peal out like tin foil
Yeah I'm going to go deeper, I was getting tired and sweaty by the time I'd come to that point last night, I'd done the important bit without mishap so I was happy leaving it there.

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Holy moley, that is well in there mate, good luck fella.
Tell me about it Thanks buddy
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04' Terrano II SE 2.7 TDi SWB Commercial in Silver - Project Thread
Toyo Open Country M/T 33's on 10J Steels, Super Strong Steering Job
Navara D22 Snorkel, Front LOKKA, Maunal Hubs, EGR Blank
TunitII ECU Chip, 3" Body Lift, 2" Suss Lift, Heat Exchanger
Black Interior, 3.0 Borg&Beck Clutch, Eckes Heated Fuel Filter


99' Y61 Patrol GR SE 2.8 TD6 LWB in Blue/Silver - Project Thread
Engine Transplant - In Progress!!!
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Old 11-05-2016, 09:26   #15
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Square Taper Stud Removers delivered yesterday, hope the remove this stud cleanly

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04' Terrano II SE 2.7 TDi SWB Commercial in Silver - Project Thread
Toyo Open Country M/T 33's on 10J Steels, Super Strong Steering Job
Navara D22 Snorkel, Front LOKKA, Maunal Hubs, EGR Blank
TunitII ECU Chip, 3" Body Lift, 2" Suss Lift, Heat Exchanger
Black Interior, 3.0 Borg&Beck Clutch, Eckes Heated Fuel Filter


99' Y61 Patrol GR SE 2.8 TD6 LWB in Blue/Silver - Project Thread
Engine Transplant - In Progress!!!

Last edited by Banshee; 21-07-2017 at 09:03.
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