rust protection

[exosteve]

I want to protect my chasis and underside of the terrano to make it last many years.
what should i use?
my mechanic friend advises me to stay away from waxoil as it stays tacky and dust and crap stick to it.
he also says stay away from underseal as if water does get in it cant get out and is trapped between the metal and underseal.
he reccomends just black paint.
any thoughts please.
steve.

[Fez_uk]

Dinitrol is pretty good, but expensive.

[stinka]

Originally Posted by Fez_uk

Dinitrol is pretty good, but expensive.

I did my arches last April. I ground them back to shiney metal, red oxided and then waxoyl

Waxoyl is shit. It's come off in places from the spray and the red oxide is showing

Back to drawing board this April for me, need to find something a bit better than waxoyl to touch it in

[exosteve]

Ive just been looking at dinitol and theres a package for 120 notes that pretty much covers all my rust protection needs.
like you stinka april sounds a good month to tackle this job.hopefully it will be a lot dryer then and i wont trap any moisture.
steve

[davenclaire]

ok its cheap cheerfull and been around for ever, grease. just apply with an old paint brush it stops rust in its tracks is long lasting and you can reapply as often as required which wont be very often

[stinka]

I think I'm gonna soak my arches with petrol, to break down the waxoyl, then steam clean them.

Then I'll redo them with stonechip spray

[firebobby]

I use Bilt Hamber products, very effective on rust and great for protecting your pride and joy

[melissachels]

Originally Posted by stinka

I think I'm gonna soak my arches with petrol, to break down the waxoyl, then steam clean them.

Then I'll redo them with stonechip spray

there a stone chip spray with a galv in it, comes in black, i'll get name 2moro

[dogwagon]

I have had good results from:
wire brush loose / heavy rust first!

Kurust ... converts existing rust residue to an inert substance ... i applied it to parts of my classic BL Barge in 1994 and it started to bubble again in 2004 ... so i thought that was really impressive! It also acts as a primer ... however i always apply primer as well ... belt n braces!!

Waxoyl ... contrary to popular belief it is for HIDDEN areas like box sections ( injection tool required) and internal or protected areas . It is not designed to be in 'splash' zones or else it will wash off ... and yes it remains slighlty liquid so that it can 'creep' to cover an area if need-be.
PS if you are intending to inject it, may i suggest that you buy 1 of the 'tubular' tins either clear or black ... and place it in a very warm place before use & when not in use ... & immerse in a bucket of hot water while in use ... if it's warm it squirts ... if it gets cold it's a major pain!!
Oh and from my experience the tool that you push push push to produce a pressure squirter only squirts for under a minute per pressurisation ... so it's a LONG job to inject a whole car!!

Waxoyl Undershield ... good quality ... but not as expensive as dinitrol which has had excellent reports in the classic Car press. It contains anti-rust agents. Yes it does need regular inspection and subsequent 'touch-ups' in case it gets cracked due to flexing / or paint underneath coming away, but i have found it decent enough for the money!

NB do the welding BEFORE the waxoyling ... it is flammable!!!

(As you may expect, the above is given as the benefit of my experience and common sense + product instructions should also be used!!)

[arcascomp]

Originally Posted by firebobby

I use Bilt Hamber products, very effective on rust and great for protecting your pride and joy

I've got some of these to try out, it all sounds good, but pleased to hear how well you think they do. Hopefully going to get my truck floor de-sieved this weekend with a few well placed plates of steel, so I'm intending trying to get everything out of the way and use some Deox Gel to eat the rust back ready for welding.

Everything I've read seems to rate the stuff, so fingers crossed it does the job.

[macabethiel]

Originally Posted by stinka

I think I'm gonna soak my arches with petrol, to break down the waxoyl, then steam clean them.

Then I'll redo them with stonechip spray

Aside from the dangers of petrol with its low flash point why not use White Spirit as its the solvent it is dispersed in when you buy it and its much less dangerous.

[macabethiel]

Originally Posted by exosteve

I want to protect my chasis and underside of the terrano to make it last many years.
what should i use?
my mechanic friend advises me to stay away from waxoil as it stays tacky and dust and crap stick to it.
he also says stay away from underseal as if water does get in it cant get out and is trapped between the metal and underseal.
he reccomends just black paint.
any thoughts please.
steve.

If you are not afraid of hard work and really want it to last do what I did on my old Mk 1 Mini Cooper.

I cleaned with a wire brush where I could after a steam clean then I coated the whole underside (the rear sub-frame removed) with glass fiber resin using a short stiff brush and then working with the very thin tissue paper glass fibre matting pasted the tissue in place.

I soon learnt the art of pasting the tissue in place and if needed went over it when it was dry with extra resin to prevent any pockets that water could get through.

It was a horrible job and took me a couple of afternoons. I then sprayed the resin with black bitumen paint.

It remained rust free for over 10 years and due to the thin matting it was chip resistant. It kept the water and rust out and was easy to wash with a hose when muddy.

Only trouble I had once was when an MoT station thought I had done a bodge job over some welding repairs. I then showed him the inside of the boot that I had treated the same but without the paint. He could see the good welds through the semi transparent glass fibre. When I sold the car I saw it still on the road when it was over 20 years old!

I had to scrap the overalls I used and about 6 brushes as it was cheaper than using the resin solvent!

[exosteve]

What about satin hammerite?
Im thinking of using a spray type internal protector for inaccessable areas and using rust converting hammerite for rust hotspots.
Its guaranteed for 8 years. but obviously with the abuse i intend to test my motor with I dont mind reaplying every couple.
for 40 notes its a cheap method.20 quid a year.
steve

[Fez_uk]

not much point painting over rust

[exosteve]

Originally Posted by Fez_uk

not much point painting over rust

No there isnt.
its not rusty. theres a couple of spots that will be cleaned off.and if I miss any the hammerite should do what it says on the tin and make it rock hard.
My truck is 12 years old and in good nick. and i want to keep it that way and preserve it for another 12 at least.
steve