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I'm new here, please be gentle This is where you can "introduce yourself". A chance for you as a new member to say hello and for you to tell us about yourselves, your truck and your other interests.

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Old 14-01-2011, 23:28   #16
leet
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Vehicle: 1998 maverik tdi swb
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Originally Posted by rustic View Post
Hi, welcome to the club, regarding the auto hubs, they appear to be ok.

The rear diff is an LSD Limited slip diff so both wheels can spin under certain conditions.

The front is a standard open diff, so if one wheel spins the other can be stationary.

If either front hub is not engaged then there is no way that the other can spin. I hope this reassures you.
Best regards, Rustic
thanks rustic, would the open diff theory still be true if it is the same side that spins everytime? Is there a check i can do with the front jacked up in 4wd?
Where exactly should i be probing the alternator to check for 3a drain if the battery is disconnected? Auto electrics are a whole new world. I have a battery isolator switch which im having to turn off everytime i get out of the truck at the moment so am keen to get this sorted asap
thaniks ..lee
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Old 14-01-2011, 23:34   #17
rustic
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thanks rustic, would the open diff theory still be true if it is the same side that spins everytime? Is there a check i can do with the front jacked up in 4wd?
Where exactly should i be probing the alternator to check for 3a drain if the battery is disconnected? Auto electrics are a whole new world. I have a battery isolator switch which im having to turn off everytime i get out of the truck at the moment so am keen to get this sorted asap
thaniks ..lee
The meter set on amps needs to go across the isolator switch so all the current that would have gone through the switch will now go through the meter. Check which sockets the leads need to go to on the meter.
You might just want to put a 15 Amp fuse say in series with the meter just in case the current is much higher or it could melt your meter leads.
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Old 14-01-2011, 23:42   #18
Timbo_1975
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Does the maverick tdi have the infamous mini filter? i ask as when driving its great but when revved up when stationary there is a lot of whitish smoke and hesitation which i have read as typical fuel starvation symptoms....
On the TDI, spluttering and white puffs of smoke when revved stationary is normal. The factory ecu software is such that timing is very retarded under such conditions.
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Old 15-01-2011, 00:00   #19
leet
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On the TDI, spluttering and white puffs of smoke when revved stationary is normal. The factory ecu software is such that timing is very retarded under such conditions.
i find that hard to believe, puffs of white smoke is indicative of air introduced into the fuel system and there is no way that should happen?
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Old 15-01-2011, 00:32   #20
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Old 15-01-2011, 01:26   #21
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i find that hard to believe, puffs of white smoke is indicative of air introduced into the fuel system and there is no way that should happen?
Assuming I understood you correctly in that it splutters as you rev it, then sorry, that is how they are when running 'right' off load.

Yes white puffs are indicative of aeration on a steady throttle, but in this case it's due to the timing.

If you hold revs steady then blip it, you will be able to induce a misfire every time.

When cold and during warm up, it wont do it, as timing is much more advanced.

Reason - when the ecu sees the car stationary it refers to a timing map which in a nutshell pulls ~8 degrees advance throughout the rev range. If you notice the engine is alot more responsive to revving when the car is moving than stopped.

If you wish, rig up a gravity fed pot of diesel direct to the pump to 100% rule out air leaks.

The steel chassis pipes do love to rot, and obviously the short lengths of rubber hose could perforate too. Some filters wont seal properly on the filter head, and occasionally the primer diaphram splits too.
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Old 15-01-2011, 11:09   #22
leet
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Originally Posted by Timbo_1975 View Post
Assuming I understood you correctly in that it splutters as you rev it, then sorry, that is how they are when running 'right' off load.

Yes white puffs are indicative of aeration on a steady throttle, but in this case it's due to the timing.

If you hold revs steady then blip it, you will be able to induce a misfire every time.

When cold and during warm up, it wont do it, as timing is much more advanced.

Reason - when the ecu sees the car stationary it refers to a timing map which in a nutshell pulls ~8 degrees advance throughout the rev range. If you notice the engine is alot more responsive to revving when the car is moving than stopped.

If you wish, rig up a gravity fed pot of diesel direct to the pump to 100% rule out air leaks.

The steel chassis pipes do love to rot, and obviously the short lengths of rubber hose could perforate too. Some filters wont seal properly on the filter head, and occasionally the primer diaphram splits too.
thanks for the explanation, makes sense although mine does splutter whether warm or cold. I can see some corrosion on a section of the pipe so will cut this out for now and replace with rubber and see what happens.
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