help needed

solarman216 · 03-09-2014, 22:54

OK you guys and girls are any of you butchers that operate a Biro 3334 meat saw, I have a big problem with one of my customers saw, it keeps kicking blades off and cannot fathom why? Rick

solarman216 · 03-09-2014, 22:57

to illustrate the importance that this deserves, £100 goes to the man that can solve it, Rick

AlexD333 · 03-09-2014, 23:10

Quote:

Originally Posted by solarman216

to illustrate the importance that this deserves, £100 goes to the man that can solve it, Rick

The answer "if you cant fix it, it's broken"

solarman216 · 03-09-2014, 23:17

Quote:

Originally Posted by AlexD333

The answer "if you cant fix it, it's broken"

very rare am I defeated, but this one is a real pain both pulleys are in line, belt tension is correct but still sheads blades, Rick

AlexD333 · 03-09-2014, 23:17

Can't see a forum for it, or any problems on Google with same symptom

I did find this though, has a few measurements that may help

http://www.birosaw.com/products/wp-c...ssseries92.pdf

Lazy-Ferret · 03-09-2014, 23:38

Not sure if you have the manual...

http://www.waltonsinc.com/PDF/Model%...w%20Manual.pdf

On the Band saws I have used in the past (not Meat), assuming it was all working fine, and then started playing up after a blade change, blade run off was normally caused by a bad welding in the band saw blade loop, where it was not properly aligned, and when you looked closely, the back edge had a small step at the join.

Now knowing you, you have already tried a new blade, but is it from the same manufacturer, e.g, is there a manufacturing fault?

Lazy-Ferret · 03-09-2014, 23:51

Just found this...
http://meatcuttersclub.activeboard.c...topic=44059424

Read down to the bottom, not sure where they mean to put the metal though.

zippy656 · 04-09-2014, 06:37

Ah, its a band saw.

First check rubbers on wheels. Dammage can cause it to jump off. Smooth flat or convex

Second, check top wheel moves freely, not round and round but tips back, as needs to keep blade runnin in center of rubber on.wheel, (only if rubbers are convex)

Third. If rubbers flat, top wheel should be tiped back a little, pullin blade back.

Fourth. Chech top and bottom.wheel guides are free running, not worn with chips dents or chunks missing.

Last, the guides that the blade is pushed onto when cutting is set correctly. Both set same one above table, the other below, if to far back. After cutting the blade will sprin forwards, jumpin off wheel.

Info from woodworking machines, 20+years. Not meat. But think info still sound as machines are the same.

Banshee · 04-09-2014, 10:50

Quote:

Originally Posted by AlexD333

The answer "if you cant fix it, it's broken"

Exactly what I was going to write

I had to read the thread title and user 3 times and then still had to open it to check I'd read it correctly

AlexD333 · 04-09-2014, 12:26

Quote:

Originally Posted by Banshee

Exactly what I was going to write

I had to read the thread title and user 3 times and then still had to open it to check I'd read it correctly

With a look of confusion on your face I bet

Banshee · 04-09-2014, 12:27

Quote:

Originally Posted by AlexD333

With a look of confusion on your face I bet

Oh yes!!!!!

rustic · 04-09-2014, 12:24

Quote:

Originally Posted by solarman216

to illustrate the importance that this deserves, £100 goes to the man that can solve it, Rick

I speak for myself and maybe a few others, No need Rick, ok it's part of your work and income, but then you give part (a lot) of your work time and income to help members on this forum too.

About time we can help you for a change.

I hope you can get it sorted.

If I work on something that is broken, I see it as a challenge to be able to fix it, sometimes with more time and effort than it's worth...

I think most of the members on this forum are like that too.

Good luck,
Rustic

briggie · 07-09-2014, 21:17

this might not help rick mate , but about 40 years ago I worked in a slaughter house ...... we had a few big band saws for splitting carcases ...... my memory isn't too good these days , but .....as far as I remember it had to be level , and the blade didn't just go around pulleys , it went through a couple of guide type things ......... not much use I know mate , but it might help .

solarman216 · 07-09-2014, 21:25

yes Pete I have learnt a lot about meat saws of late, they have blade cleaners and pulley cleaners as well as carbide wear blocks, all have been replaced and some were not even present in the beginning, but all to no avail, all the forums I have visited say the same, bin it and get a Hobart, well that is what I have done, Rick

AlexD333 · 07-09-2014, 21:35

Quote:

Originally Posted by solarman216

yes Pete I have learnt a lot about meat saws of late, they have blade cleaners and pulley cleaners as well as carbide wear blocks, all have been replaced and some were not even present in the beginning, but all to no avail, all the forums I have visited say the same, bin it and get a Hobart, well that is what I have done, Rick

And the old unit?

If you can fix this unit you could be in the money

03-09-2014, 22:54	#1
solarman216 Off road maniac Join Date: Dec 2009 Location: Bexhill on Sea Vehicle: Y60 Patrol Me, 3 ltr Mrs Posts: 17,430	help needed OK you guys and girls are any of you butchers that operate a Biro 3334 meat saw, I have a big problem with one of my customers saw, it keeps kicking blades off and cannot fathom why? Rick __________________ Ex banger racer now off road maniac Lokka on the front with manual hubs Diff lock on rear 3 inch SS straight through exhaust Manly winch bumper with 13000 lb winch 10 spike ground anchor, with multiple straps and blocks Super strong body cills capped with scaffold pole 20% stronger springs all round aggressive off road tyres on wheels so just swap. Aim to get stuck and be completely self sufficient in extraction, love getting muddy, 2ft deep is good but rare.

03-09-2014, 22:57	#2
solarman216 Off road maniac Join Date: Dec 2009 Location: Bexhill on Sea Vehicle: Y60 Patrol Me, 3 ltr Mrs Posts: 17,430	to illustrate the importance that this deserves, £100 goes to the man that can solve it, Rick __________________ Ex banger racer now off road maniac Lokka on the front with manual hubs Diff lock on rear 3 inch SS straight through exhaust Manly winch bumper with 13000 lb winch 10 spike ground anchor, with multiple straps and blocks Super strong body cills capped with scaffold pole 20% stronger springs all round aggressive off road tyres on wheels so just swap. Aim to get stuck and be completely self sufficient in extraction, love getting muddy, 2ft deep is good but rare.

07-09-2014, 21:25	#14
solarman216 Off road maniac Join Date: Dec 2009 Location: Bexhill on Sea Vehicle: Y60 Patrol Me, 3 ltr Mrs Posts: 17,430	yes Pete I have learnt a lot about meat saws of late, they have blade cleaners and pulley cleaners as well as carbide wear blocks, all have been replaced and some were not even present in the beginning, but all to no avail, all the forums I have visited say the same, bin it and get a Hobart, well that is what I have done, Rick __________________ Ex banger racer now off road maniac Lokka on the front with manual hubs Diff lock on rear 3 inch SS straight through exhaust Manly winch bumper with 13000 lb winch 10 spike ground anchor, with multiple straps and blocks Super strong body cills capped with scaffold pole 20% stronger springs all round aggressive off road tyres on wheels so just swap. Aim to get stuck and be completely self sufficient in extraction, love getting muddy, 2ft deep is good but rare.

03-09-2014, 23:17	#5
AlexD333 Senior Member Join Date: Jan 2014 Location: Uk Vehicle: 2004 Terrano 2.7 TDI Posts: 7,847	Can't see a forum for it, or any problems on Google with same symptom I did find this though, has a few measurements that may help http://www.birosaw.com/products/wp-c...ssseries92.pdf

03-09-2014, 23:38	#6
Lazy-Ferret Senior Member Join Date: Jun 2012 Location: Sevenoaks, Kent Vehicle: Terrano 2.7TDi SE Touring Posts: 5,221	Not sure if you have the manual... http://www.waltonsinc.com/PDF/Model%...w%20Manual.pdf On the Band saws I have used in the past (not Meat), assuming it was all working fine, and then started playing up after a blade change, blade run off was normally caused by a bad welding in the band saw blade loop, where it was not properly aligned, and when you looked closely, the back edge had a small step at the join. Now knowing you, you have already tried a new blade, but is it from the same manufacturer, e.g, is there a manufacturing fault?

03-09-2014, 23:51	#7
Lazy-Ferret Senior Member Join Date: Jun 2012 Location: Sevenoaks, Kent Vehicle: Terrano 2.7TDi SE Touring Posts: 5,221	Just found this... http://meatcuttersclub.activeboard.c...topic=44059424 Read down to the bottom, not sure where they mean to put the metal though.

04-09-2014, 06:37	#8
zippy656 Senior Member Join Date: Aug 2008 Location: Devizes Wiltshire Vehicle: Nissan Note Ntec 1.5 Posts: 14,138	Ah, its a band saw. First check rubbers on wheels. Dammage can cause it to jump off. Smooth flat or convex Second, check top wheel moves freely, not round and round but tips back, as needs to keep blade runnin in center of rubber on.wheel, (only if rubbers are convex) Third. If rubbers flat, top wheel should be tiped back a little, pullin blade back. Fourth. Chech top and bottom.wheel guides are free running, not worn with chips dents or chunks missing. Last, the guides that the blade is pushed onto when cutting is set correctly. Both set same one above table, the other below, if to far back. After cutting the blade will sprin forwards, jumpin off wheel. Info from woodworking machines, 20+years. Not meat. But think info still sound as machines are the same.

07-09-2014, 21:17	#13
briggie Senior Member Join Date: Mar 2010 Location: peoples democratic republic of west yorkshire Vehicle: " alice " Posts: 10,473	this might not help rick mate , but about 40 years ago I worked in a slaughter house ...... we had a few big band saws for splitting carcases ...... my memory isn't too good these days , but .....as far as I remember it had to be level , and the blade didn't just go around pulleys , it went through a couple of guide type things ......... not much use I know mate , but it might help .