Mot advisory notice

[kwondo]

Hi all my mav passed its mot today with 3 advisory's
1. parking brake lever has little reserve travel
2. advise engine warning light
3. advise starting problems
i geuss i have to look at these
1. i presume this means it goes up to far.... easy to adjust, no problems
2.warning light on dash is because....see item 3
3. educate tester how not to stall car and wait for the heater coil to go off before trying to start ,

another year of happy motoring.....maintaining, repairing and spending money on it, would'nt change it though unless i could afford a newer one

[makeitfit]

Top day out boyo, well done
Shame about the oik tester

[solarman216]

do not adjust the cable it must be dome at the wheels drums off, Rick

[kwondo]

Originally Posted by solarman216

do not adjust the cable it must be dome at the wheels drums off, Rick

wheel drums off and ajusted at the adjusters before mot, i loosend the cable right off before i adjusted, i thought it would be just adjusting at the hand brake lever again, or maybee not what do you think?

[solarman216]

me jumping to conclusions, but I have said this many times before, there are two tell tale buttons on the rear of the back plates with the HB on you will be able to push them in a few mm they might be stuck if not used for a long time, the let the HB off and you will find they will be pushed fully out by the levers on the brake shoes, now you can adjust the cables to take up the slack but when finished the buttons must still be fully out, ie you should not be able to push them in, Rick

[kwondo]

Originally Posted by solarman216

me jumping to conclusions, but I have said this many times before, there are two tell tale buttons on the rear of the back plates with the HB on you will be able to push them in a few mm they might be stuck if not used for a long time, the let the HB off and you will find they will be pushed fully out by the levers on the brake shoes, now you can adjust the cables to take up the slack but when finished the buttons must still be fully out, ie you should not be able to push them in, Rick

thanks solarman, i presume that these little buttons can be seen from underneath looking at the back of the plate, are they metal? will take a look tomorrow and have a go, cant see them on the manual, my mav is a 2.7tdi non abs if that makes any difference, I have never attepted to bleed the LSV ......SHOULD I ....dont want to snap the nipple, although i dont think this will effect the handbrake?

[stinka]

Originally Posted by solarman216

me jumping to conclusions, but I have said this many times before, there are two tell tale buttons on the rear of the back plates with the HB on you will be able to push them in a few mm they might be stuck if not used for a long time, the let the HB off and you will find they will be pushed fully out by the levers on the brake shoes, now you can adjust the cables to take up the slack but when finished the buttons must still be fully out, ie you should not be able to push them in, Rick

Not on the later c200 axle models mate

[stinka]

Originally Posted by solarman216

do not adjust the cable it must be dome at the wheels drums off, Rick

This.

I've done mine twice in last 12 months.

First wind off handbrake cable under lever, to end of thread

Drop drums off, check lip, if its more than 1mm grind it off.

Adjust shoe adjuster up a few clicks, refit drum and hit a few times with hammer, turn, hit again, aplly foot brake... Do this to re-center shoes, then remove and adjust shoe adjuster again. Keep going until it just goes on, with a tad of friction.

I get mine solid so it will only just turn by hand, then take it for a drive, hammer the brakes on rd test, come back and jack it up and check the rear wheels haven't bound due to heat expansion

[kwondo]

Originally Posted by stinka

This.

I've done mine twice in last 12 months.

First wind off handbrake cable under lever, to end of thread

Drop drums off, check lip, if its more than 1mm grind it off.

Adjust shoe adjuster up a few clicks, refit drum and hit a few times with hammer, turn, hit again, aplly foot brake... Do this to re-center shoes, then remove and adjust shoe adjuster again. Keep going until it just goes on, with a tad of friction.

I get mine solid so it will only just turn by hand, then take it for a drive, hammer the brakes on rd test, come back and jack it up and check the rear wheels haven't bound due to heat expansion

thanks did that, and went for a drive, checked drums werent bound, and were burnt fingers on drum so loosened off as bit, but think problem is with cable on lever, cheers

[rustic]

Originally Posted by stinka

Adjust shoe adjuster up a few clicks, refit drum and hit a few times with hammer, turn, hit again...

I would advise against hitting a cast drum with a hammer, you could put a hairline crack in it.

Either use a mallet, or a hammer and a piece of hardwood, so you don't get metal on metal.

best regards,

Rustic

[kwondo]

Originally Posted by rustic

I would advise against hitting a cast drum with a hammer, you could put a hairline crack in it.

Either use a mallet, or a hammer and a piece of hardwood, so you don't get metal on metal.

best regards,

Rustic

i used a copper hammer

[stinka]

Originally Posted by rustic

I would advise against hitting a cast drum with a hammer, you could put a hairline crack in it.

Either use a mallet, or a hammer and a piece of hardwood, so you don't get metal on metal.

best regards,

Rustic

I've been hitting drums hard with a hammer for 20 yrs and never had or heard of a cracked drum.