viscous fan,

[96terrano]

i'm fitting another 12" fan to my trucks rad, i already have a 9" AC fan off a SE. ive been told that i should remove the viscose because it's a bhp waster, but my thoughts are it cools the engine when idling. and it gives a dominating roar
my 9" and 12" are running though a switch on the dash
WHAT'T YOUR THOUGHTS????

[cncfabs]

Originally Posted by 96terrano

i'm fitting another 12" fan to my trucks rad, i already have a 9" AC fan off a SE. ive been told that i should remove the viscose because it's a bhp waster, but my thoughts are it cools the engine when idling. and it gives a dominating roar
my 9" and 12" are running though a switch on the dash
WHAT'T YOUR THOUGHTS????

Leave it be

[96terrano]

Originally Posted by cncfabs

Leave it be

Fair enough, I just wanted an opinion

[Lazy-Ferret]

If you are not taking out the viscous fan, then I can not see the point of putting in a second electric fan. It's just something else in front of the radiator to slow the air flow down.

The only reasons to fit an electric fan are

you are in vehicle with a light weight engine and need a few extra BHP that the fixed fan nicks... Not the case in a Terrano

You don't like the gratifying roar of the fan, and want to sound like a washing machine when the car is hot instead.

You tow, and turning the electric fan on a bit earlier helps stop the engine getting hot, but since the Terrano seems more than capable of coping with what ever you stick on the back, no need.

You spend a lot of time parked up in queues on the M25, not moving, but again, the Terrano seems to have no problem cooling it's self

Your Viscus fan has died, and you already have an electric fan knocking around in the garage, so it is easier and cheaper to fit that, than go looking for a replacement viscus one.

Remember when hardly moving the alternator is not putting out the maximum power, so it is easy to run the battery down when using it at slow speeds, especially if you have a second fan as well. Then you turn on the internal fans, maybe your lights, and try to open the windows, but the battery is flat. Engines that run too cool actually use more fuel as well.

So in a nut shell.. seems like a bad idea...

[96terrano]

Ok, but my truck gets hot when towing up a long hill with over a ton of tintent, why's that, dads driving

[(RIP) PLANK]

Originally Posted by 96terrano

Ok, but my truck gets hot when towing up a long hill with over a ton of tintent, why's that, dads driving

I have owned a fair few T2's and towed some pretty big stuff with all of them, I have never had an issue with the original fan unless there have been water pump problems as the viscous coupling is part of the pump

[96terrano]

Originally Posted by PLANK

I have owned a fair few T2's and towed some pretty big stuff with all of them, I have never had an issue with the original fan unless there have been water pump problems as the viscous coupling is part of the pump

Strange tbh, maybe it's the water pump, but that shouldn't cause over heating, my truck on normal driving sits at about quarter on the temp gauge, but when towing up hill it'll go over half and even three quarters, but if the heater is turned on it'll cool off, is it because the heater matrix is buggered?

[briggie]

or perhaps he should be checking the temp sensor instead

as far as im aware the stat has no electrical connections

[(RIP) PLANK]

Originally Posted by briggie

or perhaps he should be checking the temp sensor instead

as far as im aware the stat has no electrical connections

that's what I thought the stat is a normal wax and a spring job immersed in the coolant, or was last time I changed one

http://www.ebay.co.uk/sch/i.html?_tr...ostat&_sacat=0

[makeitfit]

"stat is fine, i get the right ohms"
SAY WHAT there's your problem then, ohms in your stat = not good

[(RIP) PLANK]

Originally Posted by makeitfit

"stat is fine, i get the right ohms"
SAY WHAT there's your problem then, ohms in your stat = not good

you're just taking the p**s now

[96terrano]

Originally Posted by makeitfit

"stat is fine, i get the right ohms"
SAY WHAT there's your problem then, ohms in your stat = not good

I was told to look for a number when testing it. It was either ohms or resistance, I can't remember.

[briggie]

Originally Posted by 96terrano

I was told to look for a number when testing it. It was either ohms or resistance, I can't remember.

resistance is measured in ohms

[makeitfit]

Originally Posted by 96terrano

I was told to look for a number when testing it. It was either ohms or resistance, I can't remember.

Reeeeeeeeeeeeee-wind are you talking about the thermostat that lives in your hot water system? 'cause I am. It simply opens up when it gets hot , like say 85 degrees.
To test, bung your "stat" in a pan of water on your tin tent's billy stove. Apply gas and heat up while observing your handy tin tent thermometer , or your mum's jam making one. At about 85 degrees the thermo"stat" should open
It's like magic and requires no multimeter gizmo ohmage
Enjoy

[briggie]

if we really want to be silly ...... the stat has a spring in it ..... effectively a coil , so it will have inductance in it too