nearlly fixed it

[extreme-4x4]

ok well she is nearlly there

i got 4wd and 2wd both going straight and smooth

as you know pete makeitfit came around in the week and helped out with the truck. we lowered it down to near standard. this highlighted some of the problems. mostly on the new parts i fitted before 2 track rod ends steering cross bar and steering idler all had play in them and hitting the chassis and chewing itself up. back on the phone to milner off road . to complain
friendly bunch they said they would send out a repeat order.

so as i have the spare truck that pete pinched loads of bits off the same day. (about 150-200 quids worth if you went to a breakers)
i ripped all the steeing bits off today and although very rusty they were servicable.
i put them on mine. but i took the idler arm off with the cross bar so as not to break that swivel joint .
now its always been the case from when i got the truck , even when i fitted the new idler arm it always ended up really close to the chassis, "dont know if anyone else has noticed" so i modified the idler bracket so its 15mm lower. now as i opened the holes up to allow movement on the bolts i had to run a few welds to it and the chassis as well as the big bolts and supersized washers

so the steering mechinism is now 15mm further away from the chassis on the passenger side , so as or when i get movement later on it wont jam up or catch on the chassis. i found this to be a problem a few times now and its quite scary not having any steering.

anyway with the new second hand parts fitted and the mods i did today its driving very nice indeed and the tracking is staying in.

done the tracking with a string line, been strugling with this all week this bit. i set it, then move the truck it goes out about an inch or so and all tight. finally i got it sussed you have to park on a sheet of plastic to allow the wheels to turn smoother i gave it a light wd40 too. then set the tracking ., rock the truck vigeriously then set it again . check its still straight then tighten all the lock nuts this gives you straight wheels.


the only thing i dont get there is nothing wrong with the steering cross bar its better than the 2nd hand one i just put on but it wont work on my truck

also i will need some new front shocks soon the bush has gone on one. unless the ones on my spare truck are servicable

[elty001]

Originally Posted by extreme-4x4

ok well she is nearlly there

i got 4wd and 2wd both going straight and smooth

as you know pete makeitfit came around in the week and helped out with the truck. we lowered it down to near standard. this highlighted some of the problems. mostly on the new parts i fitted before 2 track rod ends steering cross bar and steering idler all had play in them and hitting the chassis and chewing itself up. back on the phone to milner off road . to complain
friendly bunch they said they would send out a repeat order.

so as i have the spare truck that pete pinched loads of bits off the same day. (about 150-200 quids worth if you went to a breakers)
i ripped all the steeing bits off today and although very rusty they were servicable.
i put them on mine. but i took the idler arm off with the cross bar so as not to break that swivel joint .
now its always been the case from when i got the truck , even when i fitted the new idler arm it always ended up really close to the chassis, "dont know if anyone else has noticed" so i modified the idler bracket so its 15mm lower. now as i opened the holes up to allow movement on the bolts i had to run a few welds to it and the chassis as well as the big bolts and supersized washers

so the steering mechinism is now 15mm further away from the chassis on the passenger side , so as or when i get movement later on it wont jam up or catch on the chassis. i found this to be a problem a few times now and its quite scary not having any steering.

anyway with the new second hand parts fitted and the mods i did today its driving very nice indeed and the tracking is staying in.

done the tracking with a string line, been strugling with this all week this bit. i set it, then move the truck it goes out about an inch or so and all tight. finally i got it sussed you have to park on a sheet of plastic to allow the wheels to turn smoother i gave it a light wd40 too. then set the tracking ., rock the truck vigeriously then set it again . check its still straight then tighten all the lock nuts this gives you straight wheels.


the only thing i dont get there is nothing wrong with the steering cross bar its better than the 2nd hand one i just put on but it wont work on my truck

also i will need some new front shocks soon the bush has gone on one. unless the ones on my spare truck are servicable

did you get a steering idler from milners?
have heard that the holes dont line up very well so this could have been the root of your problems.
a few members on here have had a problem with the replacement one that they have supplied.

[extreme-4x4]

funny no they didnt.... i didnt think to ask on here when i got my new one the first time i just made it fit.
but its now 15mm lower than standard now.

im hopefull

ok so may I ask , if my steering is a bit vague , which bits should I change ?

[Terranosaurus]

This lowering the idler is a bit of a no no really unless you also lower the steering box, even then it need to be done in concert with one of the big lift kits like Blue bull is/was getting in order not to upset stuff.. The whole steering gometry relies on the idler being a mirror of the steering box pitman arm. You will probably have induced bump steer and ruined the ackerman set up.

Rememer how the press jumped on the guy on Lincolnshire who had the accident is the 110 - that wasn't equal side to side either and was one fo the things picked up in the engineeers report.

[extreme-4x4]

Originally Posted by Terranosaurus

This lowering the idler is a bit of a no no really unless you also lower the steering box, even then it need to be done in concert with one of the big lift kits like Blue bull is/was getting in order not to upset stuff.. The whole steering gometry relies on the idler being a mirror of the steering box pitman arm. You will probably have induced bump steer and ruined the ackerman set up.

Rememer how the press jumped on the guy on Lincolnshire who had the accident is the 110 - that wasn't equal side to side either and was one fo the things picked up in the engineeers report.

thats the point... it wasnt she same as the steering box arm it was way too high and at wrong angle. my protractor says its about right now and equal distance from chassis. but as one end is a swivel and one is a ball joint its not that exact a science . its purelly to make sure it dont hit the chassis again. besause jammed steering is not nice. been there

[extreme-4x4]

first look at your track rod ends, where they join the steering cross bar
also check the cross bar and idler

the easy way is to jack the front of the car up, so both wheels are off the ground. you really should put blocks or axle stands under to support it

then wiggle the passenger side front wheel and see if there is any play in it to the other side. at its worst point i was getting to move mine 40mm before the other side moved (you need 2 people to have a good look)

id expect 5mm because there are a lot of joints between the wheels 6 in total
so there will be something


basicly a little is a lot at the wheels so look closely

if you need pics or manual let us know someone will help.
or i will do some for tonight . im spending the day with the kids today having just spent a whole week on my truck and they are pulling there hair out