macabethiel
05-11-2016, 16:53
Hope this picture loads OK.
http://i296.photobucket.com/albums/mm191/macabethiele/Jeep%20DTRLs_zpsi1ksdnha.jpg (http://s296.photobucket.com/user/macabethiele/media/Jeep%20DTRLs_zpsi1ksdnha.jpg.html)
I fitted these round DTRL's yesterday cheap on e-bay at £6.59 the pair and used a relay that cost £2.78 from China.
As I discovered when I fitted DTRL on my Beamer the relays must have some sort of voltage activation as if you test the lights with your car battery they work fine. Once you fit a relay they need the engine to be running so that the charge voltage makes the relay work as a test without the engine running will either give you no lights working or they come on for a fraction of a second before they go out.
Hardest Job on the Jeep was to find somewhere to connect the power to the relay and hence the lights without running a cable through the bulkhead e.g. from Cig lighter power supply.
That got me thinking so I have taken a permanent live 12 volts from the fuse box under the bonnet and connected that up temporarily. When you start the vehicle the lights come on as they should but when you switch off they stay on for between 15-30 seconds until the voltage drops and they go out.
It might be this is going to cause a battery drain so I intend to put a second relay in place and take power for the relay from the washer motor in the reservoir under the front wing thus only adding a small load to the circuit. I have added a small fuse holder with a Mini Blade 2.5 amp fuse fitting to the power take off so its a properly fused supply. All cables in plastic trunking with connector block fitted inside a plastic chocolate type box.
It might be that no drain is likely so am not sure if the relay and connection from the washer pump supply is needed. It means a jack up and partial removal of a wheel arch liner to find the washer motor connection. The power comes through the ignition feed for the washers and the switch just earths the system so when the ignition is on the feed to the washers is live.
Anyone know if the second phase is needed or is it worth seeing if the battery drains via the DTRL relay ?
http://i296.photobucket.com/albums/mm191/macabethiele/Jeep%20DTRLs_zpsi1ksdnha.jpg (http://s296.photobucket.com/user/macabethiele/media/Jeep%20DTRLs_zpsi1ksdnha.jpg.html)
I fitted these round DTRL's yesterday cheap on e-bay at £6.59 the pair and used a relay that cost £2.78 from China.
As I discovered when I fitted DTRL on my Beamer the relays must have some sort of voltage activation as if you test the lights with your car battery they work fine. Once you fit a relay they need the engine to be running so that the charge voltage makes the relay work as a test without the engine running will either give you no lights working or they come on for a fraction of a second before they go out.
Hardest Job on the Jeep was to find somewhere to connect the power to the relay and hence the lights without running a cable through the bulkhead e.g. from Cig lighter power supply.
That got me thinking so I have taken a permanent live 12 volts from the fuse box under the bonnet and connected that up temporarily. When you start the vehicle the lights come on as they should but when you switch off they stay on for between 15-30 seconds until the voltage drops and they go out.
It might be this is going to cause a battery drain so I intend to put a second relay in place and take power for the relay from the washer motor in the reservoir under the front wing thus only adding a small load to the circuit. I have added a small fuse holder with a Mini Blade 2.5 amp fuse fitting to the power take off so its a properly fused supply. All cables in plastic trunking with connector block fitted inside a plastic chocolate type box.
It might be that no drain is likely so am not sure if the relay and connection from the washer pump supply is needed. It means a jack up and partial removal of a wheel arch liner to find the washer motor connection. The power comes through the ignition feed for the washers and the switch just earths the system so when the ignition is on the feed to the washers is live.
Anyone know if the second phase is needed or is it worth seeing if the battery drains via the DTRL relay ?