compression glands

[96terrano]

I'm wanting to put wiring through my roof and out so I can power big fat roof lights:naughty already got my wiring via a relay up their just need to get the wiring in, how do comp glands work? And what ones would I need?

[makeitfit]

Basically a compression fitting sizes to suit your cable. A rubber washer/gland is compressed over the wire resulting in a water proof transition.
Like these but check sizes http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/5-x-20-mm-Black-Waterproof-IP68-Compression-TRS-Cable-Stuffing-Gland-Locknut-M20-/261159325381?pt=UK_BOI_Electrical_Components_Suppl ies_ET&hash=item3cce4f0ec5

[96terrano]

Ahh right, thanks for that, I'll check sizes

[Lazy-Ferret]

I used a 7 pin waterproof IP68 connector, that way I can take the light bar off if I want to with out any hassle. The pins are rated at 6 amp, so as I use the fixing screws of the light bar as the return, it gives me enough for 6 x 55w spots, plus the LED running lights.

It is similar to this,

6 pin IP68 connector (http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/IP68-6-WAY-SEALED-CONNECTOR-KIT-3A-JAM-NUT-CHASSIS-SOCKET-AND-PLUG-/320879290081?pt=UK_BOI_Electrical_Components_Suppl ies_ET&hash=item4ab5e566e1)

IIRC I got them from either Farnell or RS components, as I got them for another project, and never used them.The only downside is you have to solder the cable to the pins, which was a bit fiddly as I used 7 core trailer accessory wire which was a bit thick. I also filled the plug with silicon, so it could not get water in it either.

Remember for a Compression gland to work properly, the cable needs to be properly round, so you need to run a multicore cable through it, rather than several single cores, otherwise water uses capillary action and comes in through the gaps between the individual wires.

[96terrano]

I used a 7 pin waterproof IP68 connector, that way I can take the light bar off if I want to with out any hassle. The pins are rated at 6 amp, so as I use the fixing screws of the light bar as the return, it gives me enough for 6 x 55w spots, plus the LED running lights.

It is similar to this,

6 pin IP68 connector (http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/IP68-6-WAY-SEALED-CONNECTOR-KIT-3A-JAM-NUT-CHASSIS-SOCKET-AND-PLUG-/320879290081?pt=UK_BOI_Electrical_Components_Suppl ies_ET&hash=item4ab5e566e1)

IIRC I got them from either Farnell or RS components, as I got them for another project, and never used them.The only downside is you have to solder the cable to the pins, which was a bit fiddly as I used 7 core trailer accessory wire which was a bit thick. I also filled the plug with silicon, so it could not get water in it either.

Remember for a Compression gland to work properly, the cable needs to be properly round, so you need to run a multicore cable through it, rather than several single cores, otherwise water uses capillary action and comes in through the gaps between the individual wires.

Bugger ok thanks for that, I'm useing 30AMP wires:doh

[Fez_uk]

If you plan on putting a snorkel on, You can run the wires along the side of it in some that ribbed conduit. Thats what I did.

http://fez.coldcity.com/downloads/4x4/snork/SAM_2412.JPG

[96terrano]

Not bad

[rustic]

I used a 7 pin waterproof IP68 connector, that way I can take the light bar off if I want to with out any hassle. The pins are rated at 6 amp, so as I use the fixing screws of the light bar as the return, it gives me enough for 6 x 55w spots, plus the LED running lights.

It is similar to this,

6 pin IP68 connector (http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/IP68-6-WAY-SEALED-CONNECTOR-KIT-3A-JAM-NUT-CHASSIS-SOCKET-AND-PLUG-/320879290081?pt=UK_BOI_Electrical_Components_Suppl ies_ET&hash=item4ab5e566e1)

IIRC I got them from either Farnell or RS components, as I got them for another project, and never used them.The only downside is you have to solder the cable to the pins, which was a bit fiddly as I used 7 core trailer accessory wire which was a bit thick. I also filled the plug with silicon, so it could not get water in it either.


These are manufactured by Bulgin, and are available in various number of connections.
I use the 6 way version on the pond for the pumps on mains elec, and they are excellent. The connections on mine are screw connectors, but 0.75 mm2 is about the largest cable size that fits, approx 6 amp rated.
You can also get the water proof covers to protect the connector when the plug isn't in.

best regards,
Rustic

[Lazy-Ferret]

If you plan on putting a snorkel on, You can run the wires along the side of it in some that ribbed conduit. Thats what I did.

http://fez.coldcity.com/downloads/4x4/snork/SAM_2412.JPG

On my Vitara, I fitted a 7pin towing socket under the bonnet, ran the cable down the side of the screen, it tucked nice and tight in the gutter, and then plugged it in under the bonnet.

I was not allowed to drill holes in the roof, as it was a company car...:lol


These are manufactured by Bulgin, and are available in various number of connections.
I use the 6 way version on the pond for the pumps on mains elec, and they are excellent. The connections on mine are screw connectors, but 0.75 mm2 is about the largest cable size that fits, approx 6 amp rated.
You can also get the water proof covers to protect the connector when the plug isn't in.

best regards,
Rustic

Mine are German, Some make beginning with "H" I think, I have had them for about 10 years, if not more. They also have the screw on cap for when they are disconnected.

[makeitfit]

Here's mine and Plessy I think but nice high rating :D
http://i667.photobucket.com/albums/vv36/daudwpsyn/04082009535.jpg

[96terrano]

I think I've found somthing that might work, its called a din socket

http://pages.ebay.com/link/?nav=item.view&id=170986349632

[makeitfit]

Doesn't look man enough to me :nenau
Ask them what the rating is :confused:

[Lazy-Ferret]

I wouldn't use that...

Apart from as Makeitfit says, it does not look "Man enough", it is also only weatherproof, not water proof... You need IP68 rating.

Weatherproof will not cope with rain being driven into it as you travel along at 60mph.

You will see most IP68 sockets, are raised above the mounting, so that water does not run into them, but round them, and then the plug screws onto the socket, and has a seal in it, to keep it water tight.

[96terrano]

Bugger:doh problem is, i really nerd somthing with spade terminals as its 30amp cable I'm useing, no way can it be soldered

[makeitfit]

Bugger:doh problem is, i really nerd somthing with spade terminals as its 30amp cable I'm useing, no way can it be soldered
Ofcourse you can, you're an auto electrician (trainee) :sly even I can solder :lol

[Lazy-Ferret]

Bugger:doh problem is, i really nerd somthing with spade terminals as its 30amp cable I'm useing, no way can it be soldered

I can't think of any connectors that use spade terminals inside... sort of defeats the point crimping a connector on to then connect to another connector. The problem is, spades are too big. Even towing socket, which are pretty big in size don't allow spade connections.

Another way, would be to use the spades to join to a wire that can be soldered into a multi-pin water proof socket. The only problem there is, it kind of defeats the point of running 30amp wire up to it as you end up with a lower current wire at the connector. That is why I went for lower current wires, but run more of them, rather than trying to use one large wire.

You might have to do a rethink.

[Lazy-Ferret]

How about these... they are rated at 32 amp...

Chassis socket (http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/1x-bulgin-900-series-buccaneer-5way-panel-socket-ac196-/160381778127?pt=UK_BOI_Electrical_Components_Suppl ies_ET&hash=item25577fb8cf)

In-line plug (http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/BULGIN-900-SERIES-BUCCANEER-5-WAY-PLUG-/111010656043?pt=UK_BOI_Electrical_Components_Suppl ies_ET&hash=item19d8c02f2b)

it's even the right colour for your car...

[makeitfit]

How about these... they are rated at 32 amp...

Chassis socket (http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/1x-bulgin-900-series-buccaneer-5way-panel-socket-ac196-/160381778127?pt=UK_BOI_Electrical_Components_Suppl ies_ET&hash=item25577fb8cf)

In-line plug (http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/BULGIN-900-SERIES-BUCCANEER-5-WAY-PLUG-/111010656043?pt=UK_BOI_Electrical_Components_Suppl ies_ET&hash=item19d8c02f2b)

it's even the right colour for your car...
Exactly, I ran three lives up there so I can actually do 45 amps easy :thumbs

[96terrano]

The only other thing I can do is try and waterproof the din socket, I got a message back from the guy saying its 27amp

[Lazy-Ferret]

The only other thing I can do is try and waterproof the din socket, I got a message back from the guy saying its 27amp

Bad idea... with all the work you re doing, no point in ruining it with the wrong type of socket....

If you are going to bodge it, then you may as well just put a gland in the rood, and fill it full of silicone, as it will give you far less trouble in the future. Wet head linings are bad news, and damp in a camper, is the end of the world, considering most of the fittings are MDF or hardboard.

[makeitfit]

The only other thing I can do is try and waterproof the din socket, I got a message back from the guy saying its 27amp

So it wont do 30 amps :doh It's also only two pin so you could run two lives and ground to body externally.
Is that at 6, 12 or 24 volts by the way ?

[96terrano]

Ok, well I've got the wiring in the roof, I'll keep looking for a suitable conector as I Dont want to bodge :nono

Was 12V Pete

[Lazy-Ferret]

Ok, well I've got the wiring in the roof, I'll keep looking for a suitable conector as I Dont want to bodge :nono

Was 12V Pete

Did you see my post above with the links?

[Fez_uk]

I think it's 40a rating... NA. The seller could be making it up and the pics are not detailed enough

As said why does the connection need to be spade terminals?

[96terrano]

I think it's 40a rating... NA. The seller could be making it up and the pics are not detailed enough

As said why does the connection need to be spade terminals?

I want to crimp spade terminals onto the 30 amp wire and attach it to the back of the socket, would be easier than trying to solder 30amp wire

[96terrano]

Did you see my post above with the links?

I did, one of them uses termination screws that might work :)

[Lazy-Ferret]

I did, one of them uses termination screws that might work :)

I take it you have a proper AMP crimp tool for spades and use the oens with the two "U" for insulation and wire, rather than the Red Blue and Yellow automotive ones.

If you want to get a neat end on the 30amp wire for using in a screw terminal, crimp a "Proper" spade on the end, and then cut it off just in the thin bit just after where the wire is crimped, but before the spade starts. The bit left on the wire normally fits a treat in the larger screw terminals, and gives it a bit more meat for the screw to dig into. I do it on my towing sockets, and the great thing is, if you ever need to change the socket, the wire is still all neat to put in to the new fitting.

I have a ton of Amp and Molex pins and Sockets here, from when my dad used to make the looms for the fruit machines. I use them for doing this all the time.

[96terrano]

I take it you have a proper AMP crimp tool for spades and use the oens with the two "U" for insulation and wire, rather than the Red Blue and Yellow automotive ones.

If you want to get a neat end on the 30amp wire for using in a screw terminal, crimp a "Proper" spade on the end, and then cut it off just in the thin bit just after where the wire is crimped, but before the spade starts. The bit left on the wire normally fits a treat in the larger screw terminals, and gives it a bit more meat for the screw to dig into. I do it on my towing sockets, and the great thing is, if you ever need to change the socket, the wire is still all neat to put in to the new fitting.

I have a ton of Amp and Molex pins and Sockets here, from when my dad used to make the looms for the fruit machines. I use them for doing this all the time.

I've only got the red blue and yellow spade terminals

[rustic]

Doesn't look man enough to me :nenau
Ask them what the rating is :confused:

I have a few of these on the boat, they are normally good for 10 amps, but they are not water proof, they will easily corrode when damp. Really they are similar but smaller than cig sockets on cars and just as weather proof..(NOT).

Using the term DIN socket, does not identify a particular size or type of connector. DIN is just a European standards system.

It's a bit like saying it is to British Standards, there are thousands of them, all different.

Military spec plugs/ sockets are a good bet, Amphenol, or Cannon spring to mind. BUT MIL spec.

You could use Terminal posts, but open to the weather, salt etc and will corrode via electrolysis.

The are also marine connectors for mast head connections, that allow mast un- stepping, but the issue here is current rating.

I will have a browse for you.

best regards,

Rustic

[Lazy-Ferret]

I've only got the red blue and yellow spade terminals

Ohh... sorry, I thought I read in another post someone said you had a proper crimp tool, so I thought it was one that used this sort of terminal.

http://m2.sourcingmap.com/smapimg/en/n/12b/pcs-gold-tone-spade-crimp-terminals-63mm-wiring-connectors-248646n.jpg

I have this for Spade terminals,
http://www.surplus-electronics.co.uk/urchin/assets/images/_mod/20111122_122700.7799.845.800.-1.85.jpg
Great bit of kit, but can be a bit mean, as it has a ratchet, and will only open once it has been fully crimped home, which is a bummer if you mess up.

I also have different ones for the Molex round pins and yet another for the Amp round pins.

[96terrano]

I have a few of these on the boat, they are normally good for 10 amps, but they are not water proof, they will easily corrode when damp. Really they are similar but smaller than cig sockets on cars and just as weather proof..(NOT).

Using the term DIN socket, does not identify a particular size or type of connector. DIN is just a European standards system.

It's a bit like saying it is to British Standards, there are thousands of them, all different.

Military spec plugs/ sockets are a good bet, Amphenol, or Cannon spring to mind. BUT MIL spec.

You could use Terminal posts, but open to the weather, salt etc and will corrode via electrolysis.

The are also marine connectors for mast head connections, that allow mast un- stepping, but the issue here is current rating.

I will have a browse for you.

best regards,

Rustic

Ok thanks mate, aye, theres got to be a connector out there somewhere, I'll speak to a guy I know who sells ex military stuff and see if he's got anything, I need to get some MOD stuff for my Terrano anyway

[Lazy-Ferret]

Went to Maplins today, and while there spotted these "Solar" connectors... they seem to be only single pin, but you can use the car chassis as a return and are rated at 25amp. Best thing they are water proof, and they do both Chassis mount and in line at a reasonable price...

http://www.maplin.co.uk/cn40-high-power-solar-connectors-625361

Seem to do them on Ebay as well

http://www.ebay.co.uk/sch/i.html?_from=R40&_trksid=p2047675.m570.l2736&_nkw=solar+connectors

[rustic]

Do an ebay search...


"Waterproof electrical deck plug"

There are some up to 25 amp, 2 or 4 way etc etc. Less than £10 :thumbs
I can't endorse the quality though...:nenau

Hope it helps.

Rustic

[96terrano]

Thank you both very much for the help:bow appreciate it guys:thumb2

The deck plugs look pretty good, only problem is I can't find ones that have a high amp rating like rustic says, I'll have to extend my search outside of eBay :lol

[rustic]

Ohh... sorry, I thought I read in another post someone said you had a proper crimp tool, so I thought it was one that used this sort of terminal.

http://m2.sourcingmap.com/smapimg/en/n/12b/pcs-gold-tone-spade-crimp-terminals-63mm-wiring-connectors-248646n.jpg

I have this for Spade terminals,
http://www.surplus-electronics.co.uk/urchin/assets/images/_mod/20111122_122700.7799.845.800.-1.85.jpg
Great bit of kit, but can be a bit mean, as it has a ratchet, and will only open once it has been fully crimped home, which is a bummer if you mess up.

I also have different ones for the Molex round pins and yet another for the Amp round pins.

You can release even this type early as it were, after say putting in a bigger crimp in by mistake.

You have to jiggle a thin piece of flattened steel wire up the ratchet assembly and flick open the pawl. tricky but can be done.
OR remove the pivot pin, and replace with a nut and bolt.:thumbs

[Lazy-Ferret]

You can release even this type early as it were, after say putting in a bigger crimp in by mistake.

You have to jiggle a thin piece of flattened steel wire up the ratchet assembly and flick open the pawl. tricky but can be done.
OR remove the pivot pin, and replace with a nut and bolt.:thumbs

On my one, my dad replaced the top ratchet pin with a thumb nut and screw, as apparently, some bloke where they worked got his finger caught in one, and because of health and safety it had to be removed by professionals, rather then taking him across to the nearest pillar drill, which meant the delay in getting it off, resulted in nerve damage to the finger, as it took so long. After that the Health and Safety people in the company insisted that they made the units so they could be opened more easily, so even when he went to other companies, he made the same mod on auto pilot to his tools. I always wondered why the manufacturers never had to change the design though.

The Molex ones have a spring loaded open cam, which you can hold open with a small screw driver, and are a lot safer.:lol