View Full Version : Spark Generator Wanted
(RIP) PLANK
11-05-2011, 21:42
A long shot, but!
I need a spark generator for a Carver Caravel 4 caravan heater. To be honest one from anything, an old cooker or similar would probably do. It's the thing that generates the spark to ignite the gas, so anything that has a 12v or similar input.
Thanks for reading
just buy on of them cooker lighters from the £1 shop.. would it do?
solarman216
11-05-2011, 23:05
A long shot, but!
I need a spark generator for a Carver Caravel 4 caravan heater. To be honest one from anything, an old cooker or similar would probably do. It's the thing that generates the spark to ignite the gas, so anything that has a 12v or similar input.
Thanks for reading
got one in the barn, I think, will look pm Thursday, Rick
(RIP) PLANK
11-05-2011, 23:11
just buy on of them cooker lighters from the £1 shop.. would it do? NO :lol
(RIP) PLANK
11-05-2011, 23:11
got one in the barn, I think, will look pm Thursday, Rick
Cheers Rick! :thumb2
A long shot, but!
I need a spark generator for a Carver Caravel 4 caravan heater. To be honest one from anything, an old cooker or similar would probably do. It's the thing that generates the spark to ignite the gas, so anything that has a 12v or similar input.
Thanks for reading
Does it have to be automatic, ie continuous spark as you mentioned 12 volt input, or will a manual one do as seen on gas barbeques.
Carver used to be in Brownhills, maybe still are, if you talk to a guy in the repair department, he may have one lying about.
(RIP) PLANK
12-05-2011, 08:49
Does it have to be automatic, ie continuous spark as you mentioned 12 volt input, or will a manual one do as seen on gas barbeques.
Carver used to be in Brownhills, maybe still are, if you talk to a guy in the repair department, he may have one lying about.
Good point! It is a continuous 12v supply, if it were possible i would have a bash at fitting a manual one but it would be easier to change the whole heater. I am confident it is the spark generator at fault as it has a 12v supply when the heating is turned on, but no output.
Good point! It is a continuous 12v supply, if it were possible i would have a bash at fitting a manual one but it would be easier to change the whole heater. I am confident it is the spark generator at fault as it has a 12v supply when the heating is turned on, but no output.
Why not test the unit, it is possibly the output that is shorted either via a whisk of rust closing the spark gap or the HT wire leaking to earth via a damaged lead.
With the 12 volts off, disconnect the HT output lead at the spark controller, then add a short lead, and create a 2-3mm spark gap to earth or 0Volts
You could use an old spark plug.
Apply 12 volts to the unit and look for sparks or a clicking noise from the generator.
Keep your hands clear as it will give you a nasty shock.
Our home cooker one actually failed, I tested it then bought a new unit.
The gas Fridge on the boat often gets whisks of rust on the spark gap making it difficult to light but this is a manual pizo spark.
I need to strip mine out to get to it though. One day...:nenau
(RIP) PLANK
12-05-2011, 14:13
Why not test the unit, it is possibly the output that is shorted either via a whisk of rust closing the spark gap or the HT wire leaking to earth via a damaged lead.
With the 12 volts off, disconnect the HT output lead at the spark controller, then add a short lead, and create a 2-3mm spark gap to earth or 0Volts
You could use an old spark plug.
Apply 12 volts to the unit and look for sparks or a clicking noise from the generator.
Keep your hands clear as it will give you a nasty shock.
Our home cooker one actually failed, I tested it then bought a new unit.
The gas Fridge on the boat often gets whisks of rust on the spark gap making it difficult to light but this is a manual pizo spark.
I need to strip mine out to get to it though. One day...:nenau
I will give that a go now! I have a test device for testing the output of electric fence energisers (which are virtually the same thing) I might try that straight on the terminal after removing the HT wire and see what happens.
lacroupade
12-05-2011, 14:54
Are you trying to make a Talking Piano? :lol
(RIP) PLANK
12-05-2011, 17:18
Are you trying to make a Talking Piano? :lol
tit :lol
I have re-tested it and it definitely has a 12v input but no output :nenau
Deleted account DD
12-05-2011, 17:33
These lot have (or certainly used to have) a masive range of off the shelf parts for all kinds of appliances, inc an ignitor for an old fire i had a few years back.
http://www.homecareappliances.co.uk/default.asp
solarman216
12-05-2011, 17:42
The one I have is a Carver Cascade water heater WHE-40-2 but it has 12v ignition if the spark bit is the same you are welcome, Rick
(RIP) PLANK
12-05-2011, 20:16
The one I have is a Carver Cascade water heater WHE-40-2 but it has 12v ignition if the spark bit is the same you are welcome, Rick
To be honest as long as it fits in the space (and it is quite big) has + & - for the 12v supply and a HT out it would almost certainly work anyway. Cheers Rick!
solarman216
12-05-2011, 20:51
To be honest as long as it fits in the space (and it is quite big) has + & - for the 12v supply and a HT out it would almost certainly work anyway. Cheers Rick!
OK it has a metal box around it at the mo about 3 inches square may be a little bigger, I will take it off tomorrow and see what it looks like, Rick
(RIP) PLANK
12-05-2011, 21:06
OK it has a metal box around it at the mo about 3 inches square may be a little bigger, I will take it off tomorrow and see what it looks like, Rick
Thanks :thumb2
(RIP) PLANK
13-05-2011, 21:54
OK it has a metal box around it at the mo about 3 inches square may be a little bigger, I will take it off tomorrow and see what it looks like, Rick
did you get chance to have a look?
solarman216
13-05-2011, 23:19
did you get chance to have a look?
Sorry mate got called on several times today and did not get a chance, will look tomorrow def, Rick
(RIP) PLANK
13-05-2011, 23:21
Sorry mate got called on several times today and did not get a chance, will look tomorrow def, Rick
cheers Rick :thumb2
solarman216
14-05-2011, 19:41
Does this look like the bit you need? Rick
(RIP) PLANK
14-05-2011, 19:45
yes it does Rick, it looks exactly like the bit I need :thumb2
(RIP) PLANK
19-05-2011, 16:41
Thanks to Rick for the spark generator I solved the gas ignition problem, but then had no power to the gas solenoid/valve. I found issues with a burnt out transistor and a burnt diode in the thermostat panel, now it all seems fine :thumb2
I am now running the heating to test it out and it's like a flipping sauna in there!
Thanks to Rick for the spark generator I solved the gas ignition problem, but then had no power to the gas solenoid/valve. I found issues with a burnt out transistor and a burnt diode in the thermostat panel, now it all seems fine :thumb2
You get similar problems like this if the battery had been connected the wrong way round, could this have happened at some point? :nenau
(RIP) PLANK
19-05-2011, 17:19
You get similar problems like this if the battery had been connected the wrong way round, could this have happened at some point? :nenau
I have no idea as the caravan is new to me, but! the battery clips are just plain galvanised metal and you need to refer to the wire colour to connect them properly, white neutral and blue live - so very possible!
Have you tried the number i gave you for buccaneer.
I have no idea as the caravan is new to me, but! the battery clips are just plain galvanised metal and you need to refer to the wire colour to connect them properly, white neutral and blue live - so very possible!
Yes that's it, some would see Blue as the new black as in mains wiring and assume negative terminal.
In america, white is Hot ie live hence positive so yes
I'd get the red tape out and start labelling. :thumbs
Is there anything else that could have been switched on, ef flourescent lights etc, TV's pumps work either way.
Check the fridge.
Most new appliances are protected, sometimes with a low rated fuse and a diode so if reverse poer is applied it takes out the fuse only.
(RIP) PLANK
19-05-2011, 19:40
Dinky, no haven't tried it yet but I will, thanks for that :thumb2
Rustic, everything else seems fine, there was one tube dead in a light but the fridge ignitor etc seems ok :thumb2
solarman216
19-05-2011, 22:45
I have no idea as the caravan is new to me, but! the battery clips are just plain galvanised metal and you need to refer to the wire colour to connect them properly, white neutral and blue live - so very possible!
Red and Black insulation tape will help cure that problem, white and blue fgs what logic is that, Rick
(RIP) PLANK
22-05-2011, 19:48
marked terminals clearly now, I usually highlight the positive on the leisure battery's too just to avoid accidents.
Another thing i do is put the receipt for the battery in a plastic bag and tape it to the side, then write the purchase date and the length of guarantee on the top with a marker pen. We have some batteries that are still going strong despite 6 + years of abuse, like being left out side in frost and snow to run flat on electric fences. The one bit of maintenance i would recommend for them is to keep the levels topped up!: thumb2
With caravans 12v systems white is earth, anything else is live...sounds wierd, but makes remembering fairly easy. If you pull the Zig (or similar) unit, you will notice the bottom earth row is all white, the top row are all live. Makes for a quick rewire job, once you know that!
Whilst you are there, check the water heater as they had a generic fault on the carver. Pull the outside housing, and the square burner cover plate so you can see the burner, and look for sooting. Then go inside and check the control module which will be a black, triangular box below the water heater tank. Check the casing for any distortion or melting.
It may be age that caused the ignitor to go, or it may have been it trying to reignite the water heater. Safer to check anyway!
(RIP) PLANK
22-05-2011, 22:45
With caravans 12v systems white is earth, anything else is live...sounds wierd, but makes remembering fairly easy. If you pull the Zig (or similar) unit, you will notice the bottom earth row is all white, the top row are all live. Makes for a quick rewire job, once you know that!
Whilst you are there, check the water heater as they had a generic fault on the carver. Pull the outside housing, and the square burner cover plate so you can see the burner, and look for sooting. Then go inside and check the control module which will be a black, triangular box below the water heater tank. Check the casing for any distortion or melting.
It may be age that caused the ignitor to go, or it may have been it trying to reignite the water heater. Safer to check anyway!
Cheers for the tip Dan, but I don't do water heaters, so i will never know if it even works or not :nenau
But i thank the spark generator (central heating) went because the thermostat panel got spiked and killed the power to the gas valve so it was going constantly until it gave up. New transistor and a new diode and so far so good :thumb2
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