Underseal/Schultz??

[buzzaldrin]

I have heard that steam-cleaning and undersealing the chassis etc can be a good idea, to help prevent rust for one thing. My mate has a '95 Terrano II TD which has just had loads of work done due to extensive rust and corrosion, so it would seem to be true.

Anyone have any experience of which is best, who does it and rough cost estimate?

Cheers

[Deleted Member S]

I've not long done mine & took me about 1/2 a day to do the floor pan & chassis :smile: I used hammerite underseal which has wax oil in it. I used 1 litre of underseal & 2 cans of spray underseal (to get the bits I counld'nt with a brush) I've still got about 3/4 of a can left :smile: It cost £5 for the tin & £10 for the 2 spray cans

[rustic]

Hi, I have always used standard waxoyl, you can put it on to rust and it even protects it. 5 litres is more than enough for starters.
Wire brush off the rust then brush on the waxoyl, coat the metal brake pipes, unions etc except the hoses, you will need to do the high wash areas every year eg wheel arches, the suspension wish bones facing forward at the front etc.
You could also try the black waxoyl for the high wash areas.
The only problem with waxoyl, if you do inside a panel, and we get sunshine (fat chance) it all runs down to the bottom and drips out of the drain holes... Probably better to spray the inside of the panels etc
I first did my Maverick when I bought it, new in 1995 so it was quite easy to do, the advantage of these vehicles is that you can slide underneath without a jack and touch up as required, I keep a jam jar full of the stuff and cover any rust spots as soon as I see them.
If you want to undo a union say when replacing a brake cylinder or bleed the brakes, all the nuts come undone and if you wipe the waxoyl off and the component looks like new. Waxoyl can be easily wiped off with White Spirit. I must have used 10 litres of waxoyl on the Mav over the years..
Hope this helps. best regards, Rustic

[buzzaldrin]

Sooooo! You lot seem to be suggesting that I do it myself! Oh well, I've tried other stuff.

I take it you can just get this stuff from Halfords or somewhere.

If I get chance over the weekend I'll give it a go.

Thanks for the advice chaps.

[rustic]

Sooooo! You lot seem to be suggesting that I do it myself! Oh well, I've tried other stuff.

I take it you can just get this stuff from Halfords or somewhere.

If I get chance over the weekend I'll give it a go.

Thanks for the advice chaps.
You can get waxoyl from nearly every car accessory shop, Halfords included.
Check the container, as you can get clear or black, I always use clear it matts down so that it looks great and you can still see the component underneath, although as you paint it on it goes black anyway with the grime etc. :o
Expect to pay up to £20 now for 5 litres, I've not bought any recently.
To apply, shake the tin and pour into a large tin/container if you are using a brush.
If you apply the stuff in Winter, I stand the can in a 2 gallon bucket and add hot water to the bucket, slacken the top of the waxoyl, shake occasionally and this thins the waxoxl down.
As with any product, read the instructions carefully and wear the recommended safety equipment more especially if spraying.

DO NOT get the waxoyl on the brake discs, rubber brake pipes, exhaust, etc if you get it on tyres/rubber it tends to swell the surface but this is only tempory BUT check the instructions.
I coat the springs and the rubber boots on the suspension, it gets rid of all those squeeks.
Good luck this weekend, be prepared to throw your clothes away after, if you put them in the washing machine you will smell waxoyl for several washes after... but of course you will be so careful and not rub the chassis and cills with your elbows as you crawl out afterwards...
:lol: :lol:

Quick thought, don't block the drain holes with waxoyl, you will find several down each cill, use a large plastic ty-wrap to clear the slots by sliding sideways, don't use a coat hanger as this will scratch the paint.

best regards, Rustic

[Deleted Member S]

If you get the underseal on you arms & face like me:lol: Wd40 sprayed onto a cloth will remove no problems, head&shoulders gets it out of your hair :smile:
Rustic you mentioned drail hole are these on the outer or inner sills as I can't find any on my SWB :roll: :oops:

[rustic]

If you get the underseal on you arms & face like me:lol: Wd40 sprayed onto a cloth will remove no problems, head&shoulders gets it out of your hair :smile:
Rustic you mentioned drail hole are these on the outer or inner sills as I can't find any on my SWB :roll: :oops:
Hi the drain holes are slots about 3/4" wide about every 18" on the bottom of the cill (at least on my 1995 LWB Maverick) BUT they are on the inside of the cill, if you go underneath, follow the lower 1/2" of the cill and you will see the drain holes flare out about an inch wide and 1/4" deep , there is a very thin slot at the bottom.
If you have side steps you may not see them.
Hope this helps
best regards, Rustic

[Deleted Member S]

Cheers Rustic :smile: I found them -dance- must of look past them 20 times :oops: my side steps come just under the drain hole so should help to keep the muck out a bit

[leo23]

how long does waxoyl take to dry,just done mine and its still wet after hours