New Member / Thanks for your hard work

[jasont]

Hi

I am a new member based in Berkshire, have found the site great already as had the “fan only works in 4 issue” resolved now thanks to your site,

I have a couple if questions, in the snow / clear roads we currently have can I leave my van (T2 Manual Diesel 05) in 4H, or do I need to keep changing, also is there a speed not to exceed if the road is clear of snow, or in mixed snow / tarmac conditions, obviously bearing in mind road conditions,

The second question is, the rear door keeps freezing and I am unable to use it until the van warms up, has any one goy any suggestions? I was going to post this under the heading “frozen back door” but thought this may be asking for trouble

Once again thanks for all your help, it’s a great site

all the best
Jason

[jims-terrano]

Check out the downloads section as there are the 4wd distructions on there. Basically only use 4wd when on a slippery surface and if you feel the steering tightening up you may have transmission wind up so take it out of 4wd.

Jim

[clivvy]

HI Jason,

i think on the 05 plate vehicles the rules are different BUT, 4H is for slippery surfaces only, so if you hit "normal" clear tarmac, you change back to 2h on the go, but do it at less than 25 MPH. Like i say, im sure its different for your year.

as for freezing doors, get some 3 in 1 silicone spray from Halfords or wherever and spray onto a cloth, then wipe the weather seal around the door-it wont freeze shut then! spray the same into your locks too, this will drive out moisture and keep it out for a while.

good luck!

[jims-terrano]

If your lucky Jason yours being the 05 model you may have fixed hubs rather than auto lockers. Only difference is with auto lockers you reverse about 4 feet when you take it out of 4wd (or as soon as safe to do so).

Jim

[BigBlack]

Hiya mate and welcome,

Fixed hubs on the MKIV so no need to reverse, just change between 2wd and 4wd as you like (although I tend to do it below 25mph and in a straight line) when you change back to 2wd your front prop will keep spinning but not driving the front wheels until you reverse - no probs with this although some say it uses a little more fuel? When you eventually reverse the front prop stops (as I understand - but others feel free to correct me!!) :p

Can I pick your brains mate, I take it you changed your heater resistor on the fan? Was it behind the glove box, do you have a part number and an idea of price.... mine has gone b*ggered and will only blow on 3 or 4!!! :doh
Cheers

[(RIP) PLANK]

Mine is like yours (a 2003 commercial) and i don't endlessly change in and out of 4x4, in theese conditions i just leave it in 4wd. If I had a stretch of clear tarmac over a mile i would probably change back to 3wd but for general knocking about I don't bother, as there is allwas a bit more slippy stuff up ahead!

[jasont]

Hi

Thank you for your help, so even if I have the latter model still need to switch between 2h and 4h as the road surface changes, what could happen if I drive in 4h on tarmac road for a short distance / below 40MPH

I got the resistor from Nissan in Aldershot, as a short term fix Martin from Thames Car Radio 01784 434166 bodged the old one, I can thoroughly recommend him, he managed to sort out the dash lights behind the LCD mileage display, he may be able to help with the part number,

Thanks again
Jason

[rustic]

Hiya mate and welcome,
Fixed hubs on the MKIV so no need to reverse, just change between 2wd and 4wd as you like (although I tend to do it below 25mph and in a straight line) when you change back to 2wd your front prop will keep spinning but not driving the front wheels until you reverse - no probs with this although some say it uses a little more fuel? When you eventually reverse the front prop stops (as I understand - but others feel free to correct me!!)


I have older version with auto hubs, as I have said befor I have fitted a sensor on the front diff, and a small electronic circuit that causes an LED to flash, twice per rev, of the front shaft, so at speeds between 30 and 60 mph the LED looks constantly on (Haven't tried it yet at 70+mph).

I have no problems selecting 4 High or 2 high while driving at any speed as long as the LED is lit or flashing. But if in doubt about not having the front hubs engaged, engaging the 4 wheel drive at speeds above 25mph may cause severe damage to the hubs, transfer box and front diff.
Even 25mph ( as suggested by Ford/Nissan) is too high in my opinion.
If you hear clunks, it means metal to metal, so you will get wear and tear.
Look at cold chisels, they mushroom at the top with constant strikes from a hammer. OK not exactly the same event but helps to demonstrate my point.

:nenau

[jasont]

I think this is what I will probally do

Thanks for your help

[jasont]

Hi

Thank you for your help,

All the best
Jason

[jims-terrano]

I have older version with auto hubs, as I have said befor I have fitted a sensor on the front diff, and a small electronic circuit that causes an LED to flash, twice per rev, of the front shaft, so at speeds between 30 and 60 mph the LED looks constantly on (Haven't tried it yet at 70+mph).

I have no problems selecting 4 High or 2 high while driving at any speed as long as the LED is lit or flashing. But if in doubt about not having the front hubs engaged, engaging the 4 wheel drive at speeds above 25mph may cause severe damage to the hubs, transfer box and front diff.
Even 25mph ( as suggested by Ford/Nissan) is too high in my opinion.
If you hear clunks, it means metal to metal, so you will get wear and tear.
Look at cold chisels, they mushroom at the top with constant strikes from a hammer. OK not exactly the same event but helps to demonstrate my point.

:nenau

Hey Rustic, any chance of a photo and description of how you made up the little sensor. not now of course but perhaps when weathers a bit better.

Thanks
Jim

[wildbri]

Hi Big BLack, I have put up the link for finding the heater control circuit board. I found that if you look on the back of the board you may find a break in the printed circuit, if you bridge this with a blob of solder you should have all four speeds. The symptoms of this fault is that the heater fan will only run on number four , full blast which makes the driving rather draughty. regards bri

http://www.nissan4x4ownersclub.com/downloads/workshop/wk18.pdf

[(RIP) PLANK]

Hi

Thank you for your help, so even if I have the latter model still need to switch between 2h and 4h as the road surface changes, what could happen if I drive in 4h on tarmac road for a short distance / below 40MPH


Jason

nothing! it will be fine!

[Fez_uk]

have a look at scrapyards for nissan cars for a heater resistor.

Got mine from a primera. Aswell as a fuel cap for £3

[BigBlack]

have a look at scrapyards for nissan cars for a heater resistor.

Got mine from a primera. Aswell as a fuel cap for £3

Might have a go at that as Ive found out today the scrappers round the corner are breaking 2 MKIV Terranos :thumb2

[rustic]

Hey Rustic, any chance of a photo and description of how you made up the little sensor. not now of course but perhaps when weathers a bit better.

Thanks
Jim

Not a problem, you will need an inductive sensor, a couple of resistors, couple of capacitors and a transistor, LED etc
A long 10mm bolt, bracket to hold the sensor bit of cable etc.

I will sketch it out with values and email over the xmas break.
Most of the time in this sort of project is getting the right values, at first I experimented with a NE 555 timer as a re-trigerable monostable.
The problem is that you don't want the LED lit if the propshaft happens to trigger the sensor while it is stationary.
I set up the circuit so that it saw the rate of change not proximity.
Best regards, Rustic

[jims-terrano]

Ahh a 555, that brings back memories of my teenage years:rolleyes:

Jim

[briggie]

Ahh a 555, that brings back memories of my teenage years:rolleyes:

Jim

did someone mention 555 ? :augie

[lacroupade]

I have older version with auto hubs, as I have said befor I have fitted a sensor on the front diff, and a small electronic circuit that causes an LED to flash, twice per rev, of the front shaft, so at speeds between 30 and 60 mph the LED looks constantly on (Haven't tried it yet at 70+mph).

I have no problems selecting 4 High or 2 high while driving at any speed as long as the LED is lit or flashing. But if in doubt about not having the front hubs engaged, engaging the 4 wheel drive at speeds above 25mph may cause severe damage to the hubs, transfer box and front diff.
Even 25mph ( as suggested by Ford/Nissan) is too high in my opinion.
If you hear clunks, it means metal to metal, so you will get wear and tear.
Look at cold chisels, they mushroom at the top with constant strikes from a hammer. OK not exactly the same event but helps to demonstrate my point.

:nenau

All T2s, from the MkIII onwards, have fixed hubs and there is NO restriction on the speed you can engage or disengage 4WD. I've done it at an indicated 90mph in the wet with no negative effects.

We have a MkIII and a MkIV and I find on both that it can sometimes take a while for 4WD to disengage itself after you put the lever back forward....it usually takes a few gear changes before it eventually drops out and the green light goes off (until then its is definitely in 4WD). But I find it immensely reassuring to be able to whack it into 4WD at any old speed if I suddenly encounter a dodgy surface, especially at the moment!

As for keeping it in 4WD in mixed surfaces (snow to wet for example)...it does no harm whatsoever, just increases your mpg. Its only on a dry road when executing very tight turns that you will get transmission windup and even then the tyres scrub it off.