"Terrance" - 04' Terrano II SE Commercial 2.7TDi Project Thread

solarman216 said:

You are behind, said that in post 616, Rick

Click to expand...

Just checking

Issue Found!!!!

Had another go tonight, was kindly offered the use of a 3 tonne floor jack by one of the groundsman from work, they use it on the tractors :naughty

I set them both up and did a fair bit of tinkering getting the position right and in the end I just went for it against Elty's advice of doing it in the daylight but I already feely behind and just cracked on.

Got a plank of wood across the transmission tunnel in the car and ratchet strapped it up to the gearbox which helped LOADS in keeping it steady!!!

It all pulled away so easily and before I knew it I was removing the clutch cover and the issue soon became apparent




Some chocolate cradle action



Offered the 3 litre clutch up to the car and can't see anything that is going to need any modification :nenau Pete? What exactly was it that you had to get machined down on a lathe :nenau

Also, what gearbox fluid is everyone using? I want to try and resolve my 1st gear notchiness, although whose to say this wasn't down to the clutch failing. Also looks like I'm going to need a new seal for round the bell housing, anyone know where I can get one from?

Well done Zac, very unusual failure (rivets sheared) re the machining issue it is because the center plate is a little bigger than than the 2.7 so if your flywheel has a wear position then the 3 plate will overlap it and not seat correctly, but doubt if this will be the case, crack on mate you are doing well, Rick

seal around the bell housing is simply mastic, your diffilculty getting first gear will most likely be resolved with the new clutch as the failure will not have been instant but gradual over time so the clutch freeing off would have been effected so influincing gear changes, Rick

Top man. You're doing great. :clap

Great thread this, thanks for the insight.

Well????????????????????????????????????????? Rick

Progress is painfully slow at the minute just got so much going on :doh

Grabbed a little bit under the truck the other night and then a little bit earlier this evening.

I got the driveplate and lined it up on the workbench and then secure it in place with the Draper Clutchmate that I brought, brilliant piece of kit :thumb2





Then I realised that I hadn't got the gearbox back enough from the engine to offer it all up to the flywheel with the Clutchmate in place :doh

A lot of twiddling and pushing and pulling later I managed to get it back further, I then lined up with the dowels and offered the clutch cover to the flywheel then tightened all the bolts up the removed the clutchmate



I've noticed however that when I try and move the driveplate now its bolted between the flywheel and pressure plate under the clutch cover that I can't move it around, is that right? I've watched videos online where the driveplate can be moved around by hand??? Is this right? I doesn't seem as if there is any gap at all between any of the layers as shown in the picture below



I didn't really take much notice of the old one and take any pictures like an idiot :doh I want to get it right before I seal the bellhousing back to the engine

Fantastic job Zac, you are doing an amazing job pal.

:bow:bow:bow:bow:bow:bow:bow:bow

jims-terrano said:

Fantastic job Zac, you are doing an amazing job pal.

:bow:bow:bow:bow:bow:bow:bow:bow

Click to expand...

Thnaks Jim Hope the wife is on the mend :bow

No Zac you should not be able to move the drive plate once the pressure plate is tightened up, if you could then you would have no drive (clutch slip) Rick

Never heard this before. Are you sure drive plate is right way round as there sided

My reply Mark was to Zac's question that he could not move it once the pressure plate was tightened, Rick

Thanks both, I sussed it in the end, long update to come later on after my Dominoes, I'm out of puff for the day now :hmh

Big Steps!!!!

Been rolling around the truck for the best part of the day today and I'm aching like hell!!!! But the plus side is I've made some good progress.

I got outside and started where I'd left off the other night.

Firstly confirmed by eye that the flywheel, driveplate & pressure plate were aligned correctly. Messed around with the jacks a bit and then started to prepare the bell housing mounting surface and cleaned all the old mastic off, then applied the new stuff



I found that getting at the back of the car underneath with my back against the rear axle and using a foot/hand combination allowed me to push it together nicely :thumb2



Almost there.........


Then I did the following;

• Refitted Bell Housing Bolts
• Re-secured gearbox crossmember
• Re-connected all plugs and secured wiring
• Reconnected CPS and re-secured cable
• Refitted Starter Motor
• Re-Attached Slave Cylinder and bled system

Tomorrow I should be refilling the gearbox with some Comma SX75w/90 GL4 which should help with engaging 1st gear when cold.

I've also put an order in for an exhaust gasket between centre box and rear pipe, UJ for front Propshaft and UJ for rear Propshaft

I'll post some more updates tomorrow if I get any more done, I'd like to get the torsion bars stripped and re-painted before re-fitting but I should be going to pick up my Grandad's new 3 litre Terrano tomorrow :naughty

Looking good Zac :thumb2
She will soon be back on the road

elty001 said:

Looking good Zac :thumb2
She will soon be back on the road

Click to expand...

Terrance is a boy!!!!! :lol

Nice one bro :thumb2

And glad to hear you went for the 3.0, any help I can give on the 3.0 engine let me know. FYI away to do an oil change next week (giving her a full service), going to swap out the 5w40 fully synth and try 5w30 semi-synth as it was a Nissan recommended oil for euro 3.0 Trols and a few Aussie Trol owners swear by it. Will let you know how I get on.

Barrbeast said:

Nice one bro :thumb2

And glad to hear you went for the 3.0, any help I can give on the 3.0 engine let me know. FYI away to do an oil change next week (giving her a full service), going to swap out the 5w40 fully synth and try 5w30 semi-synth as it was a Nissan recommended oil for euro 3.0 Trols and a few Aussie Trol owners swear by it. Will let you know how I get on.

Click to expand...

Appreciate the offer mate, I'm sure your phone will be buzzing constantly if I have any problems :lol

Box and engine looked nice and square, well done but think you over did it on the sealant, god forbid if you ever need to seperate them again, Nissan just ran a bead around joint after assembled, you have stuck them together, bet you could take the bolts out after it has set and it will never come apart, belt and braces yea, Rick